Using New Techniques to Easily Set CNC Router Origin Points

CNC ROUTER origin points can be set quickly with lasers or digital cameras.

In part two of this series, several techniques and tools were shown for accurately setting origin points. You can use line-of-sight, feel, extrapolation from a known diameter, edge finders, wigglers, 3D sensors and more. Accuracy is critical and although all these tools and processes work well, setting origins can be time-consuming. So, in my own shop, I often use other methods and tools to locate and set my origin points. As a result, I’m able to set my zero positions in 30 seconds or less.

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CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

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5 axis CNC Router

How do I do it? Three different methods. Two involve modern tools and the third is the use of the grid system that I’ve designed for the bed of my CNC ROUTER. All three approaches speed up the process of finding origin points.

he trick with lasers is a sharp focus, good alignment and splitting the beam right on the edges of the board.

Set your origin point with a cross laser

A few years back, furniture maker and friend, Bob Spangler started using a cross laser as an alignment tool. A great idea that I adopted and took a bit further. Essentially, you mount a cross beam laser on the moving plate on your CNC ROUTER’s gantry and set the crossing beams to align with your X and Y axis. I suggest that you don’t mount it on the moving Z axis so that it travels up and down with your spindle. The reason is you’ll create parallax errors and the beam will move as your Z height moves up and down.

To use the laser, start by centering the cross beam lines over the corner of a board that’s in alignment to the axises of your CNC ROUTER’s table. Make sure your beam is focused and sharp. Use your CNC ROUTERs smallest movements to get it exactly in place. If you can split the two beams on the edges, you’re there. Now, reset the X and Y axis to zero.

Next, you need to move and center your spindle. This is the time to be as accurate as you can. Use measuring tools, like an edge finder or other technique mentioned in previous posts. Save and record the offset X and Y distance from the laser’s position to the spindle’s position. You’ll use these coordinates often so it’s worth making the information easy to access. I keep it as a little G-code file stored on a desktop sticky note on my PC-based CNC ROUTER, and as a macro in my controller program and also as a stored mini program on my Laguna IQ. Now, all you have to do is align the laser, reset X and Y to zero, move the offset distance that you recorded earlier and reset to zero, once again. This method is fast.

In the future, I’ll write a full how-to article and suggest components for laser installation as part of this CNC ROUTER Origin Points series and post it here. Since I’ve installed a cross beam laser on a CNC ROUTER a number of times, I’ve worked out the issues and sorted through the choices of laser — more powerful is not better, btw. And, walk you through alignment, the choices of holders and different power sources.

With the right software, camera and CNC ROUTER bed setup, you get a bird’s eye view of your target. This view can be magnified.

Set your origin point with a camera

The laser method works very well. But, going back and forth between your controller and the table it takes some time to line up the beams to a corner or a drawn target. And, because the beam is directly over the alignment point, it’s a little difficult to be accurate.

I’ve found a method I live even better. This is what gets my setup time down to 30 seconds or less. Because I have a PC hooked up to my CNC ROUTER, more often I use a CNC ROUTER mounted endoscope and special software that puts a target on the screen and magnifies the image. Alignment is easier if you’re right on top of the target. This solution works great and I use it daily. The process is exactly the same as the laser method. Center over the target, find the offset between the camera’s cross lines and the center of the spindle, use and record the information to move from camera position to the spindle position.

As with the laser method, I’ll also do a CNC ROUTER Origin Points article on how to set this up and which equipment to buy and how to set it up. After much trial and error, I’ve found that there are more wrong camera choices then right choices, so be careful if you choose to jump ahead. The mounting considerations for a CNC ROUTER camera are similar to the laser. However, routing the camera’s cable presents a few new challenges.

Setting Origin Points on the Fly

The final solution that I like to use is based upon the way I’ve set up the bed of my CNC ROUTER. This will take another article, a lot of explanation and photos and videos to fully explain, but let’s just say that I keep my bed milled flat and set it up as an accurate grid system and I know every position on it. I take full advantage of this for material, fixture and jig placement. I can set origin points quickly and align and hold parts on the grid. It all starts with a known home or default position that can be tested, as needed. My goal is to use the CNC ROUTER’s built-in digital accuracy to do as much work for me as possible. I even incorporate the setup into my CAD drawings so that when it comes time to mill, everything lines up. With good workflow, accuracy and origin points are just a few clicks away.

Learn to Use Digital Woodworking Tools for CNC Routers

CNC or Computer Numerical Control is growing in importance in schools. This section is an introduction to CNC Router machining and explains in simple terms the equipment needed and how it can be used.

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CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

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5 axis CNC Router

The most common questions that I hear are about how to go about learning to use digital woodworking tools? And, as woodworkers how do you use these tools to get the best out of them? In this post and the one following, I’ll point out different ways to learn how to use these tools. First an overall view. Then some suggestions on different ways to learn how to use digital tools.

Digital Tools are Different

Comparatively, using these tools well is similar to being really on top of hand tool and hybrid woodworking. It’s that magic point where your skill and experience have reached a level so that on any project, you think through what needs to be done and know how to build it right with the tools and techniques you have. That’s very satisfying. It’s exciting when it sinks in that you know that you can pretty much create anything that you can design. When you really get comfortable with digital woodworking, it’s that way too. It becomes almost a different kind of thinking.

From the outside perspective, there’s a lot going on in digital woodworking. It looks complicated. Unlike simpler tools that usually have a single purpose and the focus on using them is on physical skills and techniques, the digital world has a lot of new and different parts, processes to keep track of and possibilities to think about. That means there are new things for woodworkers to learn. The good news is there are some excellent resources to learn from.

Digital woodworking is about computer controlled hardware, software, new processes, procedures and how you apply it and create with it when working with wood. That’s different than the hybrid and hand tool woodworking methods most of us use.

First, some excellent news. In practice, both old and new methods have far more in common than you’d think. Woodworking is ultimately a problem-solving adventure involving thinking your way through mechanical problems. For many of us, that adventure is part of the fun of woodworking.

The differences between old and new are mostly about the tools and the order of how things are done.  When using hand and hybrid tools, you work through your challenges during the process of making and assembling a project. In digital woodworking, much of that same kind of problem solving takes place up front, as you’re designing, planning and preparing. That’s where software and computers come in. Like you may have learned your hand tool skills, there’s proven ways to learn digital skills. And, I think you’ll find them familiar.

Apply Mechanical Thinking

All types of woodworking, even digital, use the same kind of logical mechanical thinking. Figuring out how to make something with a CNC Router is similar to what you’re doing now using other tools. As with any tool, it’s important to understand how the tool should be used. The limitations of what can be done with a CNC Router is close to a tool you probably already know, a router. So, if you think about what a router can do using your woodworking knowledge and experience, you’ve got a pretty good idea of what’s possible with a CNC Router. The difference is that a digitally controlled router works very precisely in 3 dimensions pretty much anywhere within the working envelope of the machine you’re using. Even on one of the smaller hobbyist focused machines that would be 24” x 36” x 6”. That’s a lot of space. And a lot of possibilities. And even more fun.

Different Tools Require New Learning

Since this new world involves computers, software and digitally controlled machines, the process is naturally different. So, expect that adding digital tools means that there are new things to learn and new skills to develop. Learning to work with software tools during the design and planning phases of a project is the first task. Working with the mechanics and capabilities of the CNC Router machine and applying woodworking know-how is the next task.

We’ll get into choosing and learning software are subjects in themselves with good classroom and self-paced online learning options at a later time. Learning the overall concepts and the fundamentals of the mechanical processes for setting up and running a CNC Router properly, benefits from some kind of instruction. Just like you might pick up a particular technique or new skills in a hand tool class or workshop, the approach to learning works in digital woodworking.

Where to start

Obviously, you should always start by reading your manual that comes with your machine. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to see one that is well designed and barely more than safety procedures and specifications. There is no real content to help you get started. None of them walks you through basic routines or provides you with step-by-step examples of simple tasks. This could be done much better. I really hope manufacturers work on this.

What about the internet? The internet works well for certain kinds of learning. But, so far, there are few solutions for the interactive learning needed to get the best out of digital tools. Learning online is usually limited to watching videos. Think of it this way, if you’ve ever taken a hand tool skills class where the instructor works directly with you on every little detail from how to hold and use a dovetail saw for perfect cuts to tricks for chopping out pins and tails then you’ll understand the difference between learning a skill online and in person.

There are several in person solutions to learning how to use digital woodworking tools. I’ve got a nice list of suggestions that I’ll share in my next post.

How to Make a Home DIY CNC Router Step to Step?

One of the aspects of any home built CNC Router machine is the use of each material in the construction of the machine vs the quantity of that material you have to buy. You are only building one machine so you don’t want have to buy more material than you need to build that machine. You especially need to consider this when deciding the length of travel you want for each axis, because this decision effects almost every other part of the machine. This was the general design process I went through for my CNC machine.

1. Decide what length of travel you need for each axis (if you have a specific project in mind for your cnc then start with it’s sizes requirements)

2. Decide what type of linear motion system you will use for the machine

3. Decide what kind of linear drive you will use for each axis

4. Decide what type of drive motor and controller you will use

5. Decide the material you will use to construct the machine

6. Based on the previous decisions, design a machine on paper or a CAD software of you choice (this does not have to be a complete design, just enough so you know the total quantity of the materials you’ll need)

7. Determine if you will need any special tools for your design

8. Determine the overall cost of your design, which includes the cost of tools you may not have

9. Decide that you can’t spend that much money on the machine and return to step 1

I went through this process 5 times before coming to a final design. The pictures show the different versions of the router as my design progressed. I know most people would consider this to be overkill but for me doing all this important. I knew that once I finished actually building the machine I would have something that fit my needs and my budget without any headaches do to poor planning.

Here is my thinking for each one of the design steps I outlined:

1. Travel: My first thought for a CNC Router machine was to build molds for the vacuum forming machine I have already built. So I decided to build the machine with roughly 12”x24”x6" of travel because that how big the forming platen is on my vacuum forming machine.

2. Linear Motion: There are many options to choose from for linear motion. Commonly used methods for CNC routers include, drawer slides, skate bearings, v-groove bearings, round linear rail and profile linear rail. These are ordered in terms of cost, I would recommend going the best system you can afford. You can save some money in other areas of the machine but getting a good motion system will pay off in cutting quality. I chose to use round linear rail. This system uses precision ground and hardened steel shafts and linear bearings that use small steel balls that roll on the shaft and re-circulate through channels within the bearing. This offers smooth low friction movement and has good resistance to forces placed on the bearing in any direction. There are many different manufactures of these types of rails and bearings and costs can vary quite a bit. I got my rails and bearings from a reseller in China on ebay. The ebay store is linearmotionbearings and the prices were the best I found online. They often sells kits with three sets of rails and two bearings for each rail, which is what is needed for a 3-axis CNC. The kit I got uses 20mm x 800mm long rails for the x-axis, 16mm x 500mm long rails for the y-axis and 12mm x 300mm long rails for the z-axis. This kit cost me $223 dollars shipped. 

3. Linear Drive: The three basic options to drive each axis of a CNC router are ribbed belts, screws, and a rack and pinion. The most common on DIY CNC routers are ACME screws, ball screws and rack and pinion setups. Screw drive systems work by attaching a nut to the movable part of each axis, a threaded rod is then fed through the nut and locked into position at both ends. The screw is turned by the drive motors and the nut moves along the screw. ACME screws have trapezoidal threads that are either cut or rolled into a steel rod. ACME screw threads are used on common C-clamps. Their thread shape makes the screw stronger than the threads on standard bolts. When these threads are precision cut they are perfectly suited to drive a CNC router. Probably the most common and cheapest ACME thread size is 1/2"-10. That means1/2” in diameter and 10 threads per inch. Ten threads per inch means that if the screw in spun around 10 times the attached nut will move 1 inch along the screw. For any screw size multiple individual threads can be cut on the screw, this is referred to as the number of starts the screw has. A single start screw has one thread a 2-start has two threads and a 5-start has five threads. What is the significance of multiple threads on a screw? Well there are two things that make multiple start screws better for CNC machines. First multiple start screws are more efficient at turning the rotational force on the screw into linear force on the nut. This means it takes less torque for the drive motors to move each axis. Second, multiple start screws increase the lead of the screw, which is how far a nut would move if the screw was rotated once. To determine the lead for a screw divide the number of starts by the number of threads per inch. For example, a 1/2”-10, 5 start, ACME screw would have a 5/10 or 1/2” lead. This means for every rotation of the screw the nut moves 1/2”. This is important because the electric drive motor can produce the most torque at low speeds, and with a higher lead the nut will move farther per revolution of the screw and that means the motor can spin at a lower speed to move the axis of the machine. For my machine I chose to use a 1/2”-10, 5 start, precision ACME screw from Mcmaster Carr for all 3 axis.

Another important thing to note is how precise the fit between the nut and the screw is. A standard nut on a bolt will wiggle a small amount back and forth and in CNC terms this is known as backlash. You want to reduce the amount of backlash you have between the nut and the screw because every time the screw changes rotation direction that small amount of play in nut will throw of your CNC position off and your parts might not come out correctly sized. There are ways with both hardware and the software you use to reduce the amount of backlash you have. On the software side there are simple settings that can compensate for backlash and on the hardware side you can use an anti-backlash nut. I purchased anti-backlash nuts from dumpsterCNC and again you can find part numbers on the parts list. Typically the effects of backlash can be reduced to the point that parts can be made to within a few thousands of an inch.

1. Drive Motor: For CNC routers two basic options exist, stepper motors or servo motors. Stepper motors are used in the vast majority of DIY CNC routers. CNCroutersource has some excellent information comparing these two types of motors. The key difference in these motors is servo motors provide position feedback to ensure proper positioning while stepper motors do not. I chose to use stepper motors for my machine mainly due to cost. Servo motors are more expensive and require more expensive controllers then comparable stepper motors for the sizes that are commonly used on CNC routers. Also stepper motors are highly supported in the DIY router community and are available from many different retailers. When looking in to stepper motors and controllers I found many options and price ranges from less than $100 to more than $500. When deciding what to get for my machine I came to the conclusion that these systems are so universal that I could use my controller and even steppers for other CNC projects in the future. Knowing that I wanted to get good performance and long term reliability I decided to go with American made components from Gecko. I purchased a Gecko G540 stepper controller which can control up to 4 stepper motors at once and connects to a computer through a parallel port. I also purchased 4 280oz-in, NEMA 23 stepper motors from Gecko which are also made in America. The control software I decided to use is called Mach3 and it uses a computer’s parallel port to send signals to the G540 which controls the stepper motors. Mach3 CNC control software can be downloaded and used for free, but is limited until you buy the software for $150. Mach3 is probably the most widely used software for DIY CNC machines and is well supported.

2. Construction Material: Most DIY CNC routers are built using either MDF, aluminum extrusion, or steel. MDF can be easy to work with and cheap to buy and many first time builders use this material. Slotted aluminum extrusion, commonly from a company called 80/20, is used on many DIY CNC router design plans available on the internet. It offers many design options due to the large amount on mounting brackets and configurations the slotted design allows. Aluminum extrusion would also be the most expensive of the three methods I listed. Steel is also used to construct many DIY routers. Square tubing, angle, and flat stock are common and can usually be locally sourced. In most cases steel machines are welded together so a welder and the ability to weld are necessary. Steel is generally going to be less expensive per foot than aluminum extrusion. I chose to use 1”x2”x0.065” steel tubing to construct my CNC router. I was able to purchase a single 24ft piece from a local steel supplier, Industrial Tube and Steel. They even cut it in half so I could load it in my car. If you don’t have a local steel supplier I would suggest looking at speedymetals, I have purchased from them before and they have good prices and deliver fast. I have experience welding and a flux core welder, which is similar to MIG welder but doesn’t require shielding gas. If you want to get more information about welding take a look at this great instructable from Phil B, Learning to Weld. Using steel also requires the use of metal working tools. I used a small horizontal band saw to cut the tubing and a small bench top drill press to drill holes. I have included a few tips about working with metal and some tools that make life a lot easier in this instrucable.

3. Design: You can use what ever software you are comfortable with when designing the machine. You could even just draw your machine on paper. 123D from Autodesk and SketchUp from Google are both free 3D modeling software programs you could use. Many of the parts I used on this machine came from McMaster-Carr. Their website provides drawings for many of the items they sell including 3D models which can be downlaoded for free.

4. Tools: I used a number of tools to build my CNC machine and they are listed on the Tools step. Some of the tools are specific to working with metal and are essential to getting the best results. I also made a few of my own tools to make building this machine much easier.

5. Cost: I estimated my cost for the complete machine and electronics around $1500.

You now know my decisions and hopefully understand my reasoning. I think I have a pretty good combination of parts that has exceeded my expectations. If you decide to build a machine based on my plans I have everything laid out in the following steps.

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CNC Router 4 axis

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5 axis CNC Router

Is Your Shop Sufficient for a CNC Router?

It’s never too early to think about space

In the back of your head, you might be thinking that one day it’s possible that you might add a CNC Router to your shop, then you’ve got a lot to think about.

There’s a number of factors that go into a woodworker taking the plunge into digital woodworking. The size, space, and cost of a CNC Router, software choices, integration and workflow changes, learning CAD, CAM and more. Each of these is a topic deserving of several blog posts or articles, but I thought that I’d start off with an overall consideration to get you thinking about it. As a first step, let look at the impact a CNC could have in your shop. Other than cost and learning the question I’m most often asked is, “how much space do I need?”

The question I ask in return is, “what do you want to do with it?” In my case, I look at a CNC as a versatile tool for hybrid woodworking. Like everyone, I’d like to get the most out of my tools and use them to get real work done. Therefore, when it comes to a CNC I want to be able to cut patterns and parts for furniture, do joinery and 3D carving. These are jobs that usually require CNCs bigger than the smallest table top machines. That doesn’t mean that they have to be a large 4×8 CNC, but it does mean the machine will take up some of your precious workshop space.

How much space? A CNC with extra workspace around it takes up a noticeable amount of room in a workshop. Figure a 2×3 CNC takes up about a 4×6 space. A 4×4 might need 7×7. Basically, you should allow a few extra feet beyond the overall footprint in every direction. That makes a CNC much more like a large fixed tool. Closer to the footprint of a table saw than a router table. Let’s look at a couple of scenarios.

How does a CNC fit in an established workshop?

Unless you have a large shop, placing a CNC in an established workshop could be complicated. Particularly, if you already have a number of large fixed tools. In my case, I designed and planned my shop for a CNC years before I finally got one. Of course, the reality is that the assigned space quickly got filled up so, I had to rearrange my shop to make room for it. You might find yourself in that situation too.

Fortunately, after setting up a few shops, I picked up some lessons along the way. Starting with my first, very tiny shop, I put all my fixed tools on mobile bases.

Though my current shop is nearly 10 times the size of my first workspace, I’ve kept my tools mobile. Mobility allows me to store and use more tools in a limited space. I position them optimally as I need them and roll them out of the way when I don’t. They take up less room when idle. Only my table saw has a permanent home.

My fairly large twin spindle 3×6 CNC is also on wheels. It sits on heavy duty feet that rest on large pads that move the wheels out of the way when not needed. Though the CNC’s location in my shop is semi-permanent, I keep it mobile for another reason. I can move it out a bit when carving large pieces that are over 8’ in length.

What about fitting in a CNC in a small workshop?

As I’ve often mentioned, a CNC is unlike other power tools because of its unique versatility. It does a number of jobs well. And, although I use it regularly, I’m not planning on giving up most of my other power tools as long as I have room for them as dedicated tools are often faster and nice to have around for certain tasks. But for woodworkers with small shops, cost and the space requirements of any large tool are always important considerations.

There are various ways to accommodate a CNC in smaller shops. One is to put it on a mobile base so it can be rolled out of the way when not needed. But if your space is really limited, you might want to think of a CNC and the overall picture of a modern woodworking shop in a different way.

Depending on the work you want to do, it’s possible that the versatile CNC could also serve as a substitute for other single purpose power tools in the shop. For example, if you’re a dedicated hand tool woodworker with little shop space and a preference for jointer planes over powered-jointers, your shop could look like this:

• 2×4 CNC
• band saw
• router table
• table top drill press
• table top planer
• jobsite table saw

There are certainly other ways to approach the issue of shop space. Some woodworkers might work together and consider sharing a CNC at one location. Or, others may choose a different style CNC with a small footprint and expands its capability with a moveable table.

If you’re new to woodworking

If you’re new to woodworking, open to digital woodworking and haven’t yet fully equipped your shop, your approach to layout and function may be different than other woodworkers. You might take a more contemporary approach and centralize around a CNC instead of a table saw. Add a few additional fixed power tools, a joint making tool (like the Festool Domino or Leigh FMT for example), a good collection of hand tools and the skills to use them and as always, a great workbench.

In any case, even if you’re at the earliest stages of considering a digital tool like a CNC router for your shop, it’s never too early to start thinking about where it might live. Planning helps. I know from personal experience. I had the power, dust collection and the basic space worked out years early, I just forgot to allow a couple of feet around it in all directions.

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5 axis CNC Router

CNC Routers for Woodworking: DIY Wonder or Craftsman's Nightmare?

When my husband, the ultimate DIY guy and a finish carpenter who mostly uses hand tools for woodworking, recently discovered what the ShopBot, an example of a home CNC wood router, could do, a pained look crossed his face. "I'm obsolete," he said somberly.

CNC routers are "computer numerical controlled" machines that take the fine work of measuring, sawing, wood carving, planing, drilling, cutting mortises and tennons, and even collecting dust out of the hands of the carpenter and put it into the processors, planers, drill bits, and other fiddly bits of the computer and router machine. What can be achieved in terms of project design, time savings, and labor savings with a CNC wood router is nothing short of stunning. But even more stunning is that these computer / router machines are now affordable for use in the home shop.

CNC Router Invades the Home...at a Whittler's Pace

Currently, most CNC routers are used commercially. A few forward-thinking wood hobbyists have tried out the smaller home versions. But the CNC router's primary existing market consists of professional wood shops, furniture manufacturers, and other commercial enterprises. The CNC wood router's ability to do fast, repetitive precision work automatically by working from digital project plans has meant enormous savings for these enterprises, even given its initially hefty costs. But now you can get a ShopBot, a popular computer controlled router brand, for under $10,000.  And given how much a wood hobbyist spends on tools and machine equipment in the name of his or her hobby, this seems barely cause to blink.

Obstacles to the ShopBot Revolution

But what about the emotional component of woodworking? Is it simply to be discarded? As with most skilled crafts, the manual labor is half the fun for many carpenters and woodworkers. True, the time-consuming nature of many woodworking tasks can be considered nothing but tedium. But what about the psychological satisfaction a craftsman or craftswoman gets in meticulously hand carving designs into wood? What about the triumphs of achieving, with an old-fashioned chisel, a well-cut dovetail after the frustration of multiple trial-and-error efforts to get there? There's some virtue in this.

And what about the skill component? Will creative thinking, design savvy, spatial awareness, gross and fine motor skills, and other abilities cultivated by the woodworker go out of style? The complaints of older generations that "It's all automated! They don't know how to make XYZ the right way anymore!" seem to echo in our ears when we look at what a CNC router can do and what human carpenters no longer have to do. Devotees like my husband, who actually want to work with their hands and who appreciate the challenge of a difficult project - and, more poignantly, who want to teach these skills to the younger generations that follow them - are indeed becoming dinosaurs.

Because, as my husband carpenter has pointed out to me, it will not be very long before people begin to realize en masse the vast potential of affordable CNC machines. Imagine a world where everyone owns a CNC router machine in their home. Where buying a bed is as simple as downloading the router plans and feeding it to the machine. Where designing your own bed is as simple as downloading generic plans, altering them a bit, and feeding it to the machine. We're far from that world in terms of legal and logistical infrastructure, but we're not very far from that world in terms of technology. When that world comes to be, far more than professional carpenters will become obsolete.

CNC Router Remains Just a Tool for Now. But the Signs are Ominous. Woodworking is Changing.

For now, though, it's not true that the professional or amateur woodworker is obsolete. If you buy a ShopBot or other premade CNC router, or even build your own homemade wood router using a computer and software, they won't do you any good if you're a rank novice at the craft. You still need to have a carpentry clue. You need to set up the woodworking project and provide the finishing touch, and this takes some carpentry know-how. And conversely, if you're a pro or you know the woodworking hobby like the back of your hand, but that's all you know, and you live in terror of computers, you'll need to get up to speed.

But the labor, time, and creativity demands have been cut drastically. In one day, on a whim, you can create a beautiful, ornate woodcarving out of a digital photograph, while the human labor component is reduced to a fraction of what it was, consisting, as my spouse puts it, of setting up the machine, then wandering over to the fridge, pulling out a Coke, grabbing some chips, and sitting down to watch football for eight hours.

The existence of small and mini CNC router machines, table top CNC machines, and low cost CNC routers for the home is a signal that a new order of carpentry is encroaching, in the same way the art world was revolutionized by the technology of computerized graphic art, but perhaps even more comparable to the intrusion of the affordable computer. With cheap CNC routers comes the accessibility of an almost futuristic way to work wood and other materials.

When it comes to building wood furniture, wooden carvings, musical instruments, wood parts, and almost anything out of wood - and I've neglected to mention that most CNC routers also work with foam, plastic and even aluminum - automation on a whole new scale is on its way in.

So if you have plans to become an old-fashioned carpenter, you might want to stem those plans and aspire instead to become a new-fangled "carpentry engineer," "material-based designer," "plastic master," or whatever fancy title the user of CNC router machines will own.

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CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

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5 axis CNC Router

Each Woodworking Shop Needs A CNC Router

Owning a CNC router would have been unthinkable for a small woodworking shop just a few years ago. The high cost of these remarkable machines meant that CNC routers were out of reach for all but the largest operations, but recent cost reductions have meant that even do it yourselfers can have the power and versatility of a wood router. A CNC wood router can be a great investment, especially if you want to produce high quality signage. With such a machine the user can input almost any design into the software program and produce intricate engravings, three dimensional effects, and even pictures of people or animals that are incredibly life like.

Because the routing head of a wood routers is controlled by a computer, a unit is able to produce exact replicas of the same design every time. This can be very useful if you are planning to sell custom signage, because you can produce "blank" signs for samples. You will also be able to fill large orders quickly and easily. For these applications you won't need an expensive 5 axis machine , but just a simple 3 axis router. A CNC router is also useful if you are planning to build multiple pieces of the same component. Shelves, drawers, and other parts of cabinets and furniture can be produced quickly, saving you time and effort.

CNC router bits

Because the machine works much faster than a hand operated router it is essential to purchase quality CNC router bits or perhaps better be called router "heads". Good quality carbide router bits are surprisingly inexpensive, and a full set can be purchased for a very reasonable cost. With a good set of bits you can create beautiful rounded edges, tongues, or grooves. Many manufacturers also offer sets of CNC router bits which include two of every size and type of bit so that productivity will not suffer because of a broken bit.

Stay Safe When Doing CNC Routing

Each of the routers has its own characteristics, but there are general safety techniques you should be aware of when you are doing CNC routing. Some of the possible dangers are:

§  The ejection of the workpieces or the cutter

§  Coming in contact with the router bit

§  Unexpected movements

§  Excessive noise

§  The flying dust and chips of wood

Maintenance of any CNC machine involves checking the safety features of the router. Guarding should be kept to as close as possible of the router bit.

Programming The Router

In order to use the machine, you have to program the computer to do the CNC routing job you want. This process involves entering the tool specifications, the direction and the feed speed if you don’t have a template. Those who are used to using routers have templates which allows them to get set up really quickly.

Determining The Feeds And Cutting Speed Of The Cnc

Feeds and cutting speed for CNC router bit is generally a learning process for first time users. You have to experiment to see which on is right for your particular task or which one feels right to you. The desired finish, the tools and the geometry influence the feeds and cutting speed of your CNC router. Best stick with the instructions that came with your machine and from there on develop your own best settings tables for both router bit durability and excellence of routing result.

The SCM routers

SCM was one of the first companies to pioneer CNC technology, and SCM CNC routers are still rated as some of the best in the industry. One of the best ways to get into computer numerically controlled routing is by purchasing a used SCM router – though you may not get the latest model, you will be able to access SCM's well developed customer service network and benefit from new innovations and techniques created by SCM since the model was new. Purchasing an SCM CNC router is a sure way to ensure you get the highest quality in the woodworking routing field.

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Rapid Prototyping using the 3D Printer – Part 2

For this part, we will focus on the manufacturing sequence of the rapid prototyping using the 3D printer.

A good example of a rapid prototyping machine is the Z310 3D printer from Z-Corporation. This uses data from computer software called ZPRINT to produce physical models. Machines such as 3D printers are essential for modern high - tech industry, in order that new ideas and concepts can be tested and evaluated before expensive manufacturing begins. Prototype modelling has been shown to reduce the time required to design and manufacture a new product. The basic design and manufacturing sequence for a prototype mobile phone is shown below.

Before manufacturing the 3D model powder is added to the powder feed box and a water based binder/resin is poured into the resin reservoir. These are the essential ingredients to manufacture the model.

The CAD file is opened in ZPRINT software. The software then controls the printer building the model one layer at a time, gluing together the cross sections of the model being built.

A typical hand held model can be manufactured in less than an hour, at the fraction of the cost of manufacturing it by hand.

Advantages and Disadvantages of CNC Router Machines

PCBs are normally etched using solutions such as ‘clear etchant’ or ‘ferric chloride’. These are dangerous chemicals and if contact is made with the skin or especially the eyes, the medical consequences can be serious. Photo-resist board is used with etchants and other solutions to produce PCBs. The waste produced when using ferric chloride or clear etchant on photo-resist board must be handled with care and should not just be poured straight down the sink, especially in large amounts.

Many people, especially in schools, prefer to use software such as Real PCB to export PCB designs so that they can be cut to shape on a CNC router. The router below is similar in size to existing machines that are used to manufacture PCBs. They are safe to use because the waste produced can quite simply be brushed up and thrown away in a normal dust bin. This is because copper clad board is used instead of photo-resist board. Chemicals are not needed.

It must be remembered that manufacturing PCBs with a router is much slower than etching, although this depends on the size of the PCB. A CNC router is generally used to shape/cut one PCB at a time, whilst an etchant tank can hold several PCBs at once.
The diagram above shows a piece of copper clad board that has been cut to shape (’milled’) on a CNC router, producing a printed circuit board.

Printed Circuit Boards produced through the use software such as Real PCB, a CNC router. and copper clad board is expensive but the most environmentally friendly method. Chemicals are not used. This is regarded as the safest method of manufacturing PCBs.

Printed Circuit Boards produced through the use of a UV box, developing chemicals and etchants is the cheapest method of manufacture but the least environmentally friendly. Safety must be taken seriously when using this method manufacturing.

The waste produced through the manufacture of PCBs on an industrial scale, through the use of etchants and chlorides, has been blamed for serious pollution in the North Sea (North coast of England and Scotland). Within the last 15 years these pollutants have been blamed for the decline in fishing stocks and in particular, the decline of the seal / dolphin populations.

Below are some of the warning symbols that appear on etchants and ferric chloride solutions. They are present to warn the user of their potential danger if mishandled.

QUESTIONS:
1. Describe the difference in the way PCBs are manufactured on a CNC machine and through etchants / ferric chlorides.
2. Why should etchants and solutions such as ferric chloride be handle with great care?

How to Set Up the Cutting Tool to the Correct Length Before Using the CNC Router

One of the few operations that the CNC router machine operator carries out is to change the cutting tool. Each CNC router machine has a varied range of cutting tools. Examples include straight cutters, chamfer V-groove and radius cutters. If a complicated design is to be manufactured, it may be necessary to change the cutting tool at least once during the manufacturing process. It is very important that all the cutters are set up to exactly to the same length in the collet. If this is not done the material being machined will be machined at incorrect depths.

A special depth gauge is used to accurately set up the cutting tools. (see diagram below). This ‘rule’ applies to all CNC router machines although different techniques may be used depending on the type of the CNC router machine itself.

A pair of spanners are used to loosen the collet and locking nut. The cutting tool can then be removed and the new tool put in position. Once the depth gauge has been used to check the distance from the end of the cutting tool to the collet, the spanners are used again to tighten the collet and locking nut.

QUESTIONS:
1. Explain why cutting tools of a CNC router must be set to the same length in the collet, before machining can take place.
2. List the names of cutting tools available for any CNC router machine you have used / seen.

Control Panel Layout Design of the CNC Router

A CNC router machine is normally controlled by a computer with software. However, most CNC router machines have a range of controls for manual use. It is rare for a CNC router machine to be used manually as simple operations are best carried out on cheap/basic/manual machines. When a CNC router machine is used manually it is been used well below its capability and specification.

RESET BUTTON: The must important control button is usually the reset button. When the CNC machine is turned on, the reset button is pressed by the machine operator. This ‘zeros’ the cutter, moving the cutter to coordinates 0,0,0 on the X, Y and Z axis. In simple terms, the reset button moves the cutter to the corner of the machine, above the work table. If the reset button is not pressed, it is possible that the CNC machine will start cutting the material in the wrong place or even miss cutting the material and plunge into the work table.

MANUAL CONTROL: The cutter can be controlled manually although this is rarely needed. The ‘X’ and ‘Y’ buttons control the movement of the cutter along the horizontal surfaces. The ‘Z’ buttons control depth and up / down movement.

STOP BUTTON: Most control panels have stop buttons. When pressed these stop the machine very quickly.

SPEED AND FEED: On some CNC machines it is possible to manually vary the speed and feed of the cutter.

QUESTIONS:
1. Study a CNC machine in your workshop. Draw a simple diagram of the control panel and label the main buttons.
2. Why do CNC machines also have manual controls?

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