I couldn’t find a CNC ROUTER designed for furniture making, so I had mine custom made. Now, woodworkers have some off-the-shelf choices that fit our special requirements.

Part Two. Decisions to Make
I’ve been using CNC ROUTER services since the late ’90s to create patterns, jigs and fixture components and a few furniture parts. After years of use, the potential of a CNC ROUTER as a useful tool in woodworking was obvious. But, if I was going to make the most of it, I needed get my own machine. A couple of things were holding me back. Which machine to buy was a complicated decision. I knew what I needed, but the machine I wanted wasn’t available. That said, the major reason for the delay in getting my own CNC ROUTER was more about choosing and committing to an advanced CAD software package that I could live with for a long time.

wood CNC router
CNC router machine
CNC Router 4 axis
CNC Router 3 axis
cnc router
5 axis CNC Router

Big Machines Don’t Fit Well in Small Shops
Until recently, most CNC ROUTERs were expensive and designed for cabinet shops who use sheet goods and are sized 4×8 or larger. Like many woodworkers, my shop space is limited. Factory or cabinet shop sized CNC ROUTERs were just too big for my needs. Here’s why. The rule of thumb for sizing equipment for furniture making is to size your power tools to the average of your larger individual furniture parts. Your equipment doesn’t have to handle the biggest piece you can imagine. When the occasional really big part comes up, you work around the problem using alternate woodworking techniques. Being flexible in how you accomplish a given task is an important part of what woodworking is all about.
This same theory works for sizing a CNC ROUTER. If you consider everything you might make, you’ll find that most furniture parts really aren’t all that big. I needed a CNC ROUTER sized for furniture making not cabinetmaking.
Deciding On CAD Software for Woodworking
I also had to commit to better design software then I was using at the time. After a career as a designer, from decades of experience I knew that good software is a critical. Great software can do much more for you then just being a simple tool for making drawings. In the right hands, it’s potentially a powerful creative tool. Once mastered, it gives you new opportunities and take you in new directions.  And so, the software decision was the most difficult of the two I had to make. And, it’s the reason I didn’t buy a CNC ROUTER years sooner.
Why was it a hard choice? Because, if you’re going to use digitally based tools of any type (CNC ROUTERs, Laser Cutters, etc.) you have to make a commitment to learn CAD software – the tool you use to create your designs, and CAM software – for turning your drawings into the tool paths and the instructions that the CNC ROUTER follows. Because of its enormous range of capabilities, CAD in particular takes a commitment to dive in and learn it. I looked at many different professional packages over several years but I needed to give the contestants a more thorough evaluation. It took the commitment to get a CNC ROUTER to force me to look deeper and critically evaluate my needs and long term expectations.
And, since this question will inevitably come up, it’s important to clarify that 3D sketching software is not the same as true CAD software. The accuracy, features, toolset, versatility and potential of true CAD software – especially 3D CAD software – are critical if your intended result is CAM files that will run on CNC ROUTERs. That being said, if you already have experience in 3D sketching, it’s a great place to start as you head into the world of real CAD software.
The Cost of Software is Measured in Time. Not Dollars.
Certainly, CAD software like this can be expensive but price wasn’t my first concern. From decades using professional digital design tools I knew that the real cost in serious software is not measured in dollars. The initial cost always takes care of itself over time. The real cost is the time you put in to learn and someday master the tool. If you value your time – as you should, then time should be a major factor in your decision.
Because CAD software has so much capability and tons of features expect an investment of your time over a number of years. Digital woodworking involves creating the drawings that you’ll ultimately machine. Experience has also taught me that better quality software is often worth the added costs over a free or inexpensive solution. Unfortunately, because software can’t be touched like a beautifully made hand tool many people don’t recognize the value in it and automatically gravitate to the lowest price solution. But, like other tools in the shop, free or inexpensive software can sometimes be like living with any other cheap tool. You often get what you pay for. Inaccuracy, limitations, reliability, incompatibility and just plain being hard to learn and live with are frustrations common in both the hand tool and software worlds.
The choice of CAD software is a decision with long term consequences. In my case, I chose a highly capable 3D package with lots of room to expand.
Treat Software Like a Major Shop Tool
A more realistic approach is to consider that buying good CAD and CAM software is comparable to the process of deciding on a quality fixed tool in your workshop. It’s worth serious consideration and research on your part before you make a decision to commit.
One advantage that software has over big, heavy shop tools is you can take it home and try it out. Free trials, usually for 30 days or more give you a good chance to evaluate before you make a decision. And, don’t just poke around but also use some of the training tools that the software companies and YouTube provides.
So, What did I Do?
At the time, no CNC ROUTER manufacture made a machine available in the size, specification, level of precision and with special tweaks I considered important for furniture making,  so I ended up designing the machine I needed and having it custom built.
For me the choice of CAD package had to fit both my present and future needs, be a solid tool with a lots of capabilities. And, be a tool I wanted to live with for a long time and like any other favorite tools, be a program I really liked using. For software, I chose a high-end but moderately priced 3D CAD program called Rhino3D that I’m very happy with. And, for CAM software I chose RhinoCAM, an advanced package that nicely compliments my CAD software. Because it’s so critical to digital woodworking, software will certainly be an ongoing topic in this blog.
Next up: A series of posts on how I use CNC ROUTERs in my woodworking shop. Then we’ll start getting into some of the details of digital woodworking.

CNC Router Brings Not Only Digital Technologies But Also Art

Using a CNC ROUTER in woodworking opens up a lot of creative possibilities. Including using it as a carving tool.

While working on a couple of blog posts about a group of CNC ROUTER machines that are great for small shops, I got distracted by something rather impractical. But I thought because the distraction was about wood, it might be of interest to some of my fellow woodworkers. This is the final week of a solo contemporary art show of my work at Zinc Gallery near Seattle.  All the sculptures created for the show are made of wood and, to various degrees, carved with the aid of CNC ROUTER machines.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

As I was shooting detailed photos  at the gallery earlier this week, I realized that in all my earlier blog posts and printed articles I haven’t shown this side of my work to Popular Woodworking readers. Up to now, everything has been about practical and precision uses, plus the skills, tools and techniques of digital woodworking. That’s important stuff for new and potential digital woodworkers and there’s plenty more to come. But every once in a while, we just have to let that impractical side out for some exercise. It’s winter and it’s cold and gray out there – seems like a perfect time for a short break. Here are a few detail photos of some of the things that I do in the art world.

Fabricating Woodworks is Funny with CNC Routers

CNC Router Linker Logs Project

Have fun while learning to fabricate with plywood using CNCRouters

Although linker logs are made with the aid of a computer—once complete, they’re a great way to get kids (and parents) off the computer for an afternoon of old-fashioned fort building and pretend. The techniques shown here—including pre-finishing the plywood, programming correct joint tolerances, arranging parts, locating hold-downs and placing tabs—can also be used for other plywood projects.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

Th e inspiration for making these building planks comes from a story titled “Plywood Play Planks” that appeared in the December 1953 issue of Mechanix Illustrated magazine.

Th e original designers used 3/4″ plywood and a dado blade to cut the joints. That technique can still be used, but using a CNC ROUTER provides more freedom when designing the shape of the planks. Bill Young (a ShopBot guru from Virginia) adapted the idea for the CNC ROUTER by creating a wide variety of planks, all with a standard notch spacing. The playhouse shown below is similar to the original Mechanix Illustrated design—but I added the puppet theater window
and marquee board. Also check out the Blanket Hut below, with with its custom barrel vault roof.

Start by finishing

A coat of shellac followed by a water-based topcoat provides a durable finish for Linker Logs —and most other plywood projects. Finishing a sheet of plywood is much easier than finishing dozens of individual pieces, so applying the finish first makes lots of sense. Shellac dries quickly and seals the wood so the water-based topcoat won’t raise the grain, and gives the plywood a nice amber tone. See “Pre-finishing Plywood” (page 68) to learn more about finishing plywood.

Measure the plywood

The thickness of the plywood must be consistent so the cross-lap joints that fit properly. I recommend a tolerance between sheets of plus or minus .005″. Most good-quality AC or AB sanded plywood will be consistently sized. The sheets of 1/2″ plywood that I used to make this playhouse measured .47″ thick. Measuring after applying the finish ensures the most accurate measurement.

Cut a single part to test the joint

Rout a test part. When you test the fit in the next step, the width of the notch is the only thing that matters, so you can make the test part out of almost anything. I used 1/2″ MDF.

The test notch measured .48″ wide, which should provide the desired .01″ clearance when the cross-lap joint is assembled.

Check the joint’s fit

A mechanic’s feeler gauge works well to measure the gap between the parts of the cross-lap joint. Ideally, this gap will be .01″, but anything from .005″ to .015″ is acceptable and will hold the Linker Logs together while still allowing them to be easily assembled and disassembled.

Nest parts and locate screws

Most CNC ROUTER design programs include a “parts nesting” feature that automatically fits multiple parts to the plywood. The Linker Log parts shown here are nested .27″ inches apart—slightly larger than the 1/4″ bit that will cut them out. Once the parts are nested you can still move them around to attain the exact layout you want. This allows you to safely locate the hold-down screws that secure the plywood sheet.

PROJECT PLANS ARE AVAILABLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE.

Add connecting tabs

The next step is to add tabs between the parts to keep them attached during routing. Since there is no waste material between most of the parts, tabs need to be added opposite of each other. The tabs added here measure .1″ thick x 1″ long. An alternative to adding tabs is to adjust the routing depth to leave a thin layer of material (a skin) at the bottom of the kerf. A skin of .05″ would work fine for this project.

Secure the plywood with screws

Program the CNC ROUTER to mark the location of each anchoring screw with a shallow plunge cut. Locating the screws in your drawing and transferring them to the plywood guarantees that the router bit won’t run into the screws while cutting the parts.

Use a down spiral bit

A down-cut spiral bit pushes the wood down while cutting, so it leaves a nice, clean edge at the top of the plywood. The bottom of the cut is also clean, because the spoil board under the plywood prevents blow-out.

Separate and roundover in one step

Remove the connecting tabs. A straight flush-trim bit works well for this, but I used an Amana 1/8″ roundover bit (#MR0112) with a miniature bearing. This bit removed the tabs and rounded the sharp edges. It also allowed the  joints to fit fully together, because the logs’ rounded-over edges match the rounded inside corners of their CNC ROUTER-routed notches. I left the edges and notches unfinished.

Combo Puppet Theater and Play House

A combo puppet heater and play housethat all kids seem to enjoy, It features a marquee with room to engrave or paint your kid’s theater logo.

Project plans, Vectric Aspire, .dxf, and SketchUp files for the two playhouses can be downloaded at the bottom of this page.

Additional plank designs that included angles and curves can be found at LinkerLogs.com. You supply the kids.

Alternate T-bone notch

If you want to keep the plywood edges square, use a “t-bone” notch design. Most CNC ROUTER drawing programs have a built-in tool that lets you quickly add the right size “t-bone” to your joints. As you can see, this modification lets the plywood fully seat in the bottom of the notch.

CNC Router Woodworking Tools

I’m just back from a few days at the 2012 International Woodworking Fair at the Georgia World Conference Center in Atlanta. If you’ve never been, it’s a huge show with almost any tool manufacturer you can think of – whether they make specialized hand tools or huge industrial CNC ROUTERS operations – as well as hardware, lumber and suppliers of just about every material you could imagine a woodworker using. This is where manufacturers go to launch and show their latest tools and newest innovations. What follows is by no means a full list of the all the new products announced at the show but just a peek at those you’ll be seeing for sale now or soon (many of which you’ll also see reviewed in upcoming issues of Popular Woodworking Magazine). I’m still waiting on images of cool new tools from a few manufacturers, which I’ll add to this post as they come in. So check back in a few days.

wood CNC router
CNC router machine
CNC Router 4 axis
CNC Router 3 axis
cnc router
5 axis CNC Router

Starting with hand tools, Lee Valley Tools/Veritas has an impressive array of new products launching, all of which will be available September 1st.

First up is the Veritas Jack Rabbet Plane. This thing is a beauty, and will sell for $299. I gave it just a quick test run and it felt good in my hand and cut well. We’ll make sure to get in the PWM shop for a longer look. It’s also a great excuse to make shavings on a weekday afternoon.

Also new to the Veritas lineup is a set of chisels (based on the company’s earlier designs) that uses new and proprietary PM-V11 steel, touted to hold a keen edge at least twice as long as A2 steel, as well as replacement plane blades made of PM-V11. To learn more about the new steel, which Christopher Schwarz has already put though its paces here for PWM, with very positive results. Veritas also showed for the first time its set of inlay tools, all of which look well designed. The company’s hope is that this new set will become the go-to tools for string inlays, whether you’re doing it for the first time or the thousandth. I’m anxious to give the string inlay tools a try.

To celebrate its 35th anniversary, Lee Valley also introduced what feels like a really solid limited-edition Veritas marking gauge made of stainless steel. Also new is a small infill plane, a low-profile planning stop that works like a bench dog but spans two dog holes instead of one (dogs are adjustable to fit your particular bench) and an adjustable bar gauge, which comes with three different tips that fit the ends of the bars so that you easily can measure both inside dimensions or outside ones. Not pictured is the wide blade conversion kit (we’ll have a review for you soon) that allows you to use both straight and tongue-cutting blades on the small Veritas plow plane. Also new are set-up blocks that measure down t0 1/32″, magnetic studs that attach to your existing pegboards for securing tools, as well as a beautiful little infill plane.

Guhdo, one of the leading blade manufacturers in Germany but new to the American market,  introduced a line of saw blades that will compete with the industrial lines from Amana, Freud, CMT and other high-end woodworking blades, some of which are much higher priced. They’re manufactured with electrostatic coatings and no harmful chemicals. I won’t be surprised if we start seeing Guhdo blades in a lot of serious woodworking shops. Guhdo also introduced a line of its 48 top-selling router bits, made in Israel with proprietary carbide and comparable in price to those from Amana.
Speaking of router bits, fans (like me) of Freud’s Quadra-Cut router bits, which are designed with four cutters instead of the traditional three (with very clean results), will be glad to hear that they are now available in not only 1/2″ shanks but also 1/4″ shanks.
Also new to the Freud lineup are a number of different blades. Most impressive was the “Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Series” designed with a very steep angle to its ATB design (see photo). Other blades from Freud include Double-coated Miter Saw blades (which gave really clean results in the demo) and Industrial Miter Saw Blades.

New from Micro Fence is the small-footprint Plunge Base which works with a Dremel tool or other high-speed rotary tools and pencil die grinders. It works in much the same way as the company’s successful line for larger routers, and is compatible with the Micro Fence Edge Guide/Circle Jig and various other Micro Fence Accessories.  The projected price for the new base is $349.

New router accessories from General Tools look as if they took a now fairly common lift and fence design and gave it a facelift – and possibly a round of steroids. The cutout for the lift insert is equipped with more levelers and the lift itself is driven by a chain-drive four-post system based on the technology used in lunchbox-style planers. Once you’ve used a router lift it’s hard to go back to a traditional cutout, and I’m anxious to take a closer look at this one in the future. General also added a number of models to its existing CNC ROUTERS line for home and small shops.

Just launched this past spring is Woodpeckers’ micro-adjust mechanism for the company’s existing router fence. In the few minutes I spent with it, the action was smooth and precise. If you’ve already got the Woodpeckers fence, this micro adjuster would come in handy.

In terms of lager power tools, Powermatic’s 15″ band saw (yeah, 15″, a new category as far as I know) looks like a sweet machine, based more on the heavy-duty 18″ band saw than the traditional 14″ model. Slated to be available this fall, the $2,899 price tag is more motivating than those hanging from the company’s larger models.

On the Jet side, I found a really nice 12″ table saw with riving knife slated for an October release. It will retail for around $4,000 and looks to be a nice machine for a serious woodshop.

Though I’ve never considered myself a serious turner, the new Laguna Revo 24/36 lathe made me wish I was. It runs off a 3-horsepower (hp) motor, which is adjustable down to 50 rpms. The end of the lathe has an extension that extends the normal 36″ between centers to more than 40″. The extension on the end also swings out of the way for bowl turning, which increases the swing from 24″ to 36″. It looks to be a solid tool for a high-end turner and will cost $4,000. A smaller 2 hp version with 36″ between centers will also be available.

Fans of dowels, or those who are curious, will be glad to see the affordable doweling jig available from Rockler. At first blush it looks like a smart and well-designed tool, much more substantial than you’d expect for the low price of $14.99.

like me, you tend to use the same finish over and over, you’ll appreciate the new Mixing Mate Rockler just launched, which allows you to stir, pour and store a quart or gallon of finish without having to wrestle the top on and off every time you need to do a little finishing. The gallon version will sell for $19.99 and the quart version for $14.99.

Rockler also showed its new and successfully simple Adjustable Straight Edge Dado Jig, designed to be used with a 1/2″ straight bit to cut and position dados anywhere from 1/2″ to 1″ wide. You can also use 1/4″ or 3/4″ straight bits, by simply doing a little math and accounting for the offset from the side of the jig to the edge of the router bit.
Not pictured, there are also a few other affordable accessories available from Rockler worth mentioning. Bench Cookie fans will also like the new Bench Cookie Plus, which takes the original design and places a threaded insert in the bottom so that you can easily raise work off the bench or other worksurface, or attach them to the top of a sawhorse. The Bench Cookies themselves sell for $14.99 and either of the new attachments go for an additional $9.99. And though it may sound a bit simplistic, I’m always throwing away glue brushes because I don’t make it to the sink soon enough, so the new Silicone Glue System, which comes with a glue brush, spreader and small glue pan (all made of silicone), will make cleanup simple – even after the glue dries. With a sale price of $14.99, I’ll sure give it a try in my own shop.

The new Kreg Jig HD, which was launched at the show, works like the company’s traditional pocket hole jig but with #10 screws. While Kreg has existing jigs to work with stock less than 1″ thick, the HD jig can be used on 1-1/2″ thick stock and could come in handy around the shop and on jobsites.

Kreg also announced its new role as the U.S. distributor for Triton tools. As a fan of Triton routers (bit changes are a breeze), I’m glad to see that the company will be expanding its line of available tools. One that caught my eye was a new palm belt sander, which will compete with a similar tool from Porter-Cable.

Bosch introduced a new plunge base to accompany their popular Colt Palm Routers, and it can be purchased  alone or as part of a combo pack. Sold by itself, the plunge base will cost between $89 an d$99. The better deal is the Bosch PR20EVSPK Colt™ Router Plunge Base Kit that comes with a Colt Palm Router motor, fixed and plunge bases, and will sell for $199.99. A tool-less motor clamp on the bases makes it easy to switch from one to the other. The kit will be available in November.

If you’ve ever used a pin nailer, you’ll never be able to tack up a piece of molding – to a wall or a piece of furniture – without wishing you had one. With that in mind, Bosch also introduced the FNS138-23, a 23-gauge pin nailer. The nailer is light and feels good in your hand. At a glance, I also liked the small head on the tool, which should make it easy to see exactly where you’re driving a pin, which is key when you’re attaching small moldings.

Digital Woodworking Tools for CNC Routers

The most common questions that I hear are about how to go about learning to use digital woodworking tools? And, as woodworkers how do you use these tools to get the best out of them? In this post and the one following, I’ll point out different ways to learn how to use these tools. First an overall view. Then some suggestions on different ways to learn how to use digital tools.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

Digital Tools are Different

Comparatively, using these tools well is similar to being really on top of hand tool and hybrid woodworking. It’s that magic point where your skill and experience have reached a level so that on any project, you think through what needs to be done and know how to build it right with the tools and techniques you have. That’s very satisfying. It’s exciting when it sinks in that you know that you can pretty much create anything that you can design. When you really get comfortable with digital woodworking, it’s that way too. It becomes almost a different kind of thinking.

From the outside perspective, there’s a lot going on in digital woodworking. It looks complicated. Unlike simpler tools that usually have a single purpose and the focus on using them is on physical skills and techniques, the digital world has a lot of new and different parts, processes to keep track of and possibilities to think about. That means there are new things for woodworkers to learn. The good news is there are some excellent resources to learn from.

Digital woodworking is about computer controlled hardware, software, new processes, procedures and how you apply it and create with it when working with wood. That’s different than the hybrid and hand tool woodworking methods most of us use.

First, some excellent news. In practice, both old and new methods have far more in common than you’d think. Woodworking is ultimately a problem-solving adventure involving thinking your way through mechanical problems. For many of us, that adventure is part of the fun of woodworking.

The differences between old and new are mostly about the tools and the order of how things are done.  When using hand and hybrid tools, you work through your challenges during the process of making and assembling a project. In digital woodworking, much of that same kind of problem solving takes place up front, as you’re designing, planning and preparing. That’s where software and computers come in. Like you may have learned your hand tool skills, there’s proven ways to learn digital skills. And, I think you’ll find them familiar.

Apply Mechanical Thinking

All types of woodworking, even digital, use the same kind of logical mechanical thinking. Figuring out how to make something with a CNC ROUTERS is similar to what you’re doing now using other tools. As with any tool, it’s important to understand how the tool should be used. The limitations of what can be done with a CNC ROUTERS is close to a tool you probably already know, a router. So, if you think about what a router can do using your woodworking knowledge and experience, you’ve got a pretty good idea of what’s possible with a CNC ROUTERS. The difference is that a digitally controlled router works very precisely in 3 dimensions pretty much anywhere within the working envelope of the machine you’re using. Even on one of the smaller hobbyist focused machines that would be 24” x 36” x 6”. That’s a lot of space. And a lot of possibilities. And even more fun.

Different Tools Require New Learning

Since this new world involves computers, software and digitally controlled machines, the process is naturally different. So, expect that adding digital tools means that there are new things to learn and new skills to develop. Learning to work with software tools during the design and planning phases of a project is the first task. Working with the mechanics and capabilities of the CNC ROUTERS machine and applying woodworking know-how is the next task.

We’ll get into choosing and learning software are subjects in themselves with good classroom and self-paced online learning options at a later time. Learning the overall concepts and the fundamentals of the mechanical processes for setting up and running a CNC ROUTERS properly, benefits from some kind of instruction. Just like you might pick up a particular technique or new skills in a hand tool class or workshop, the approach to learning works in digital woodworking.

Where to start

Obviously, you should always start by reading your manual that comes with your machine. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to see one that is well designed and barely more than safety procedures and specifications. There is no real content to help you get started. None of them walks you through basic routines or provides you with step-by-step examples of simple tasks. This could be done much better. I really hope manufacturers work on this.

What about the internet? The internet works well for certain kinds of learning. But, so far, there are few solutions for the interactive learning needed to get the best out of digital tools. Learning online is usually limited to watching videos. Think of it this way, if you’ve ever taken a hand tool skills class where the instructor works directly with you on every little detail from how to hold and use a dovetail saw for perfect cuts to tricks for chopping out pins and tails then you’ll understand the difference between learning a skill online and in person.

There are several in person solutions to learning how to use digital woodworking tools. I’ve got a nice list of suggestions that I’ll share in my next post.

Craftsman’s Favorite CNC Router Kit

In our June 2007 issue we reviewed two-base CNC Router kits. You can read the full review in Adobe PDF format by clicking here. One of the CNC Routers in the test, from Craftsman, was nearly identical to the CNC Router from Bosch. As summer ended, we began to get calls and e-mails from readers telling us that the Craftsman CNC Router was not to be found. Following up, we learned that Sears had discountinued this model, and would be replacing it with a similar CNC Router in a three-base kit, including a D-handle base along with the plunge base and standard base. We’ve had the new CNC Router in our shop for a few weeks, and here are my impressions of it, comparing it to the earlier kit and the other CNC Routers we tested.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

The price of this kit is around $200, similar to other tools in the group, and the same as the previous kit. The motor had plenty of power, but it was louder and had more vibration than the earlier one. The on/off switch can’t be reached without taking a hand off the tool. It also has an electronic soft-start feature that takes several seconds to reach operating speed. The motor housing is flat on top, so it will sit upside down on the bench when changing bits. A spindle lock engages with a pin for one-wrench bit changes. Changing bases was relatively easy, but with the fixed bases, the fine adjustment override has to be pushed in before clamping the motor in place. The override also needs to be pushed to remove the motor. When this is done with the motor unclamped, the motor will drop if you’re not holding on to it.

The plunge mechanism has a strong spring, works smoothly and locks by pulling the lever down. The fine depth adjustments are a little sloppy on all three bases, and can be reached from above for adjustments when mounted in a CNC Router table. Unclamping the motor to use the fine adjustment changes the height slightly, so zeroing in to a final measurement can be awkward. The base plates hold standard template guides and are made from a clear plastic that is flexible and not quite flat. All in all the CNC Router would have rated in the bottom half of the group we tested. There are some nice extra features; vacuum attachments, an LED work light and a decent fence. If having the third base is more important than the quirks, it might be considered a good value.

CNC Router Customized to Get Furniture Making Go Digital

I couldn’t find a CNC Router designed for furniture making, so I had mine custom made. Now, woodworkers have some off-the-shelf choices that fit our special requirements.

Part Two. Decisions to Make

I’ve been using CNC Router services since the late ’90s to create patterns, jigs and fixture components and a few furniture parts. After years of use, the potential of a CNC Router as a useful tool in woodworking was obvious. But, if I was going to make the most of it, I needed get my own machine. A couple of things were holding me back. Which machine to buy was a complicated decision. I knew what I needed, but the machine I wanted wasn’t available. That said, the major reason for the delay in getting my own CNC Router was more about choosing and committing to an advanced CAD software package that I could live with for a long time.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

Big Machines Don’t Fit Well in Small Shops

Until recently, most CNC Routers were expensive and designed for cabinet shops who use sheet goods and are sized 4×8 or larger. Like many woodworkers, my shop space is limited. Factory or cabinet shop sized CNC Routers were just too big for my needs. Here’s why. The rule of thumb for sizing equipment for furniture making is to size your power tools to the average of your larger individual furniture parts. Your equipment doesn’t have to handle the biggest piece you can imagine. When the occasional really big part comes up, you work around the problem using alternate woodworking techniques. Being flexible in how you accomplish a given task is an important part of what woodworking is all about.

This same theory works for sizing a CNC Router. If you consider everything you might make, you’ll find that most furniture parts really aren’t all that big. I needed a CNC Router sized for furniture making not cabinetmaking.

Deciding On CAD Software for Woodworking

I also had to commit to better design software then I was using at the time. After a career as a designer, from decades of experience I knew that good software is a critical. Great software can do much more for you then just being a simple tool for making drawings. In the right hands, it’s potentially a powerful creative tool. Once mastered, it gives you new opportunities and take you in new directions.  And so, the software decision was the most difficult of the two I had to make. And, it’s the reason I didn’t buy a CNC Router years sooner.

Why was it a hard choice? Because, if you’re going to use digitally based tools of any type (CNC Routers, Laser Cutters, etc.) you have to make a commitment to learn CAD software – the tool you use to create your designs, and CAM software – for turning your drawings into the tool paths and the instructions that the CNC Router follows. Because of its enormous range of capabilities, CAD in particular takes a commitment to dive in and learn it. I looked at many different professional packages over several years but I needed to give the contestants a more thorough evaluation. It took the commitment to get a CNC Router to force me to look deeper and critically evaluate my needs and long term expectations.

And, since this question will inevitably come up, it’s important to clarify that 3D sketching software is not the same as true CAD software. The accuracy, features, toolset, versatility and potential of true CAD software – especially 3D CAD software – are critical if your intended result is CAM files that will run on CNC Routers. That being said, if you already have experience in 3D sketching, it’s a great place to start as you head into the world of real CAD software.

The Cost of Software is Measured in Time. Not Dollars.

Certainly, CAD software like this can be expensive but price wasn’t my first concern. From decades using professional digital design tools I knew that the real cost in serious software is not measured in dollars. The initial cost always takes care of itself over time. The real cost is the time you put in to learn and someday master the tool. If you value your time – as you should, then time should be a major factor in your decision.

Because CAD software has so much capability and tons of features expect an investment of your time over a number of years. Digital woodworking involves creating the drawings that you’ll ultimately machine. Experience has also taught me that better quality software is often worth the added costs over a free or inexpensive solution. Unfortunately, because software can’t be touched like a beautifully made hand tool many people don’t recognize the value in it and automatically gravitate to the lowest price solution. But, like other tools in the shop, free or inexpensive software can sometimes be like living with any other cheap tool. You often get what you pay for. Inaccuracy, limitations, reliability, incompatibility and just plain being hard to learn and live with are frustrations common in both the hand tool and software worlds.

The choice of CAD software is a decision with long term consequences. In my case, I chose a highly capable 3D package with lots of room to expand.

Treat Software Like a Major Shop Tool

A more realistic approach is to consider that buying good CAD and CAM software is comparable to the process of deciding on a quality fixed tool in your workshop. It’s worth serious consideration and research on your part before you make a decision to commit.

One advantage that software has over big, heavy shop tools is you can take it home and try it out. Free trials, usually for 30 days or more give you a good chance to evaluate before you make a decision. And, don’t just poke around but also use some of the training tools that the software companies and YouTube provides.

So, What did I Do?

At the time, no CNC Router manufacture made a machine available in the size, specification, level of precision and with special tweaks I considered important for furniture making,  so I ended up designing the machine I needed and having it custom built.

For me the choice of CAD package had to fit both my present and future needs, be a solid tool with a lots of capabilities. And, be a tool I wanted to live with for a long time and like any other favorite tools, be a program I really liked using. For software, I chose a high-end but moderately priced 3D CAD program called Rhino3D that I’m very happy with. And, for CAM software I chose RhinoCAM, an advanced package that nicely compliments my CAD software. Because it’s so critical to digital woodworking, software will certainly be an ongoing topic in this blog.

The Advantages of Laser Routers for Woodworking

Laser Woodworking

A pioneering craft for the 21st Century.

Each generation, a new technology in woodworking enables us to work faster, with more precision and more creativity. Carbide-tipped bits and a whole new set of portable power tools, for example, have improved how we work and what we build. For the next generation, CNC lasers may also be one of those tools that transform our shops.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

I’m a young, 21st Century woodworker. When Epilog, a maker of CNC Router lasers, asked me to try out the Helix , a mid-size machine from the Legend Elite series, I jumped at the chance. What can it do? How does it work? How far can I push it? Dozens of questions came up. I’ll introduce you to what I found, but one thing I’ll tell you up front: There’s way more to this technology than meets the eye. After days of experimenting, I only scratched the surface.

What is a CNC laser?

To understand a CNC laser, think of it as having two components. First, there’s the CNC Router (computer numerically controlled) part. You’re probably familiar with CNC Router machines–they’re common in factories, and are making their way into small woodworking shops, too. In woodworking applications, a CNC Router usually controls a router. OK, let’s replace that router bit with a highintensity beam of light–a laser. That’s the second part of the machine.

Consider a CNC laser as a type of printer. A computer program moves the machine’s head. But the head shoots a laser, instead of ink.

What can a laser do?

A CNC laser’s beam essentially heats and vaporizes the wood it contacts. By adjusting the intensity of the light, you can determine the depth that it cuts. Usually, the waste is just reduced to smoke, but when the laser is set on high, you may even create a small flame!

You can fine-tune the depth-of-cut however you wish, but think of it as having three levels: shallow, medium and deep. They correspond to three diff erent applications: engraving, relief carving and pattern cutting.

Lots of folks have bought a CNC laser for engraving things like nametags, keychains and other quickly personalized trinkets. It’s a great small business–there’s one in virtually every city in the country. You can copy your own images or download them from the Internet. Basically, any image that can be digitized can be engraved.

Cutting deeper into the wood with a laser creates a three dimensional effect, similar to low relief carving. The laser is extremely precise. You can create very intricate patterns, perfect for medallions, awards, moldings or any design that will embellish a project.

Cutting deeper yet, you can go all the way through a relatively thin piece of solid wood or plywood (up to 3/8" on the Helix I tested). You’re not making images anymore–you’re making shapes. Lasers are commonly used to make wooden clock parts, dollhouse furniture, models, 3-D animal sculptures and more. For workshop applications, you can use a laser to create extremely accurate plywood templates, based on CAD drawings, for shaping parts on a router table. You could also use a laser for intarsia, marquetry or scroll-saw patterns.

That’s just the tip of the iceberg. There’s a wide community of Epilog users online (www.EpilogLaser.com), supported and encouraged by Epilog to push the boundaries of what a laser can do. If you buy a laser for woodworking, or rent time on one, consider yourself a pioneer. Many applications have yet to be discovered!

How does the laser work?

The Epilog’s laser tube is located in back of the machine. The beam of high-energy light passes through a series of mirrors and lenses to a CNC-controlled head, which moves in an X/Y plane (Photo 1). The head moves in a totally sealed and safe compartment containing the workpiece.

The Epilog interfaces with your computer much like a printer. After you’ve set up your project in Corel Draw, the software included with the Epilog (which can be used with a wide variety of graphic-editing programs), you hit print and bring up a print driver screen, which Eplilog refers to as the dashboard (Photo 2). The dashboard is where you make your adjustments. The most important are speed (how fast the laser moves over your material) and intensity (how strong the laser is, and how deep it will cut). Once you’ve zeroed in on your settings for a particular project, you can save and recall them at any time.

What does the Epilog require?

On the hardware side, you’ll need a computer to run the Epilog. You’ll also need an exhaust system, to remove particulates and odor from the machine’s exhaust (Photo 3). Most users in a fixed installation opt to exhaust the fumes out of their shop with a hose or ductwork, but portable filtration units are available for mobile applications (like shows and fairs). Most lasers and fi ltration units only need 120-volt circuits.

On the software side, the Epilog is designed to empower even a novice computer user to get started creating quickly. You don’t have to be an expert! Having grown up in the information age, that part of the operation didn’t faze me, but I was surprised to see how easy the software was to use at its most basic levels.

Types of Epilog lasers

Epilog has two lines of lasers: Zing and Legend Elite. The major diff erences between the lines are capacity (the size and depth of the bed), power (expressed in watts) and resolution (dots per square inch).

The Zings are entry-level lasers with smaller beds and lower-power, capable of cutting through 1/4" wood.

The Legend Elite series lasers have a larger capacity, more powerful beams capable of cutting through wood up to 3/8" thick. Legend series lasers can also engrave at a faster speed than the Zings.

Both lines of lasers have a repeatability of ±.0005". Zing series machines engrave up to 1000 dpi; the Legend series goes up to 1200 dpi.

The Helix I tried out has a 24" x 18" bed, a 60-watt laser. The exhaust system we used is about $3,000.

The bottom line

An Epilog is an investment, no doubt about it. But it can be the foundation of a profitable small business or the tool that propels your woodworking to an entirely new level. To find out more about laser woodworking, contact your local Epilog distributor. He can probably locate an Epilog in your area and help you contract some work or rent some time on the machine. After seeing how quick and easy it is to personalize a project or engrave an intricate design, you just might catch the laser bug. Our photographer sure did–he achieved some remarkable results.

What A Laser Can Do

Engraving: The Epilog can burn a shallow picture or drawing on wood. You can reproduce any digital image, including your own photo or sketch.

Relief Carving: The Epilog can also be set to burn deeper, for shallow relief carving. A laser can quickly and precisely duplicate intricate patterns.

Pattern Cutting: Set to full strength, the Epilog can cut all the way through material. You can duplicate parts large or small, such as these interlocking puzzle pieces.

Inlay: Using pattern cutting and relief carving techniques, the Epilog can cut out an inlay and the recess in which it fits.

How It Works

1.     The Epilog laser’s head moves like a printer. It will scan back and forth or follow a continuous line, depending on how it’s programmed.

2.     The Epilog’s settings are adjusted in a printer driver window on your computer. By adjusting rate, frequency, intensity and other parameters, a variety of materials can be engraved or cut.

3.     The laser beam produces smoke and fumes, so you’ll also need an external exhaust system or a portable filtration unit.

4.     The future for CNC laser woodworking is wide open. This shallow relief carving, based on a photo of a tree, cuts through one layer of plywood to reveal the layer below. It’s a beautiful effect that we found with creative experimentation.

Why do I Worship my CNC Routers

People react with shock and horror when they learn I have electric CNC Router machinery in my Kentucky workshop.

After all, I’ve been writing almost exclusively about handwork for almost 20 years now. And yet anyone who is more than an acquaintance knows that I adore heavy iron, and that I coddle my CNC Router machines like prize French bulldogs. So what’s the deal?

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

I like all the woodworking tools, from chisels to CNC routers. I want to know them all – inside and out – so I can do my best work with the smallest amount of stupidity swirling around in my shop. Here are two simple examples:

Stupid: Making a jig to cut a compound angle on the table saw.
Not stupid: Knifing a line and cutting the compound angle with a carcase saw.

Stupid: Processing 200 board feet of rough lumber with a jack plane.
Not stupid: Using an electric jointer and planer to do the work in an afternoon.

Perhaps I’m just trying to be efficient, but I don’t see it that way. I choose different tools or machines to remain a furniture maker at all times. I don’t want to become a machinist where jigs, numbers and precision measuring tools guide my work. And I don’t want to be a donkey, using the little time I have on this earth to do a mindless chore (ripping 12/4 maple) out of some affectation.