I couldn’t find a CNC ROUTER designed for furniture making, so I had mine custom made. Now, woodworkers have some off-the-shelf choices that fit our special requirements.

Part Two. Decisions to Make
I’ve been using CNC ROUTER services since the late ’90s to create patterns, jigs and fixture components and a few furniture parts. After years of use, the potential of a CNC ROUTER as a useful tool in woodworking was obvious. But, if I was going to make the most of it, I needed get my own machine. A couple of things were holding me back. Which machine to buy was a complicated decision. I knew what I needed, but the machine I wanted wasn’t available. That said, the major reason for the delay in getting my own CNC ROUTER was more about choosing and committing to an advanced CAD software package that I could live with for a long time.

wood CNC router
CNC router machine
CNC Router 4 axis
CNC Router 3 axis
cnc router
5 axis CNC Router

Big Machines Don’t Fit Well in Small Shops
Until recently, most CNC ROUTERs were expensive and designed for cabinet shops who use sheet goods and are sized 4×8 or larger. Like many woodworkers, my shop space is limited. Factory or cabinet shop sized CNC ROUTERs were just too big for my needs. Here’s why. The rule of thumb for sizing equipment for furniture making is to size your power tools to the average of your larger individual furniture parts. Your equipment doesn’t have to handle the biggest piece you can imagine. When the occasional really big part comes up, you work around the problem using alternate woodworking techniques. Being flexible in how you accomplish a given task is an important part of what woodworking is all about.
This same theory works for sizing a CNC ROUTER. If you consider everything you might make, you’ll find that most furniture parts really aren’t all that big. I needed a CNC ROUTER sized for furniture making not cabinetmaking.
Deciding On CAD Software for Woodworking
I also had to commit to better design software then I was using at the time. After a career as a designer, from decades of experience I knew that good software is a critical. Great software can do much more for you then just being a simple tool for making drawings. In the right hands, it’s potentially a powerful creative tool. Once mastered, it gives you new opportunities and take you in new directions.  And so, the software decision was the most difficult of the two I had to make. And, it’s the reason I didn’t buy a CNC ROUTER years sooner.
Why was it a hard choice? Because, if you’re going to use digitally based tools of any type (CNC ROUTERs, Laser Cutters, etc.) you have to make a commitment to learn CAD software – the tool you use to create your designs, and CAM software – for turning your drawings into the tool paths and the instructions that the CNC ROUTER follows. Because of its enormous range of capabilities, CAD in particular takes a commitment to dive in and learn it. I looked at many different professional packages over several years but I needed to give the contestants a more thorough evaluation. It took the commitment to get a CNC ROUTER to force me to look deeper and critically evaluate my needs and long term expectations.
And, since this question will inevitably come up, it’s important to clarify that 3D sketching software is not the same as true CAD software. The accuracy, features, toolset, versatility and potential of true CAD software – especially 3D CAD software – are critical if your intended result is CAM files that will run on CNC ROUTERs. That being said, if you already have experience in 3D sketching, it’s a great place to start as you head into the world of real CAD software.
The Cost of Software is Measured in Time. Not Dollars.
Certainly, CAD software like this can be expensive but price wasn’t my first concern. From decades using professional digital design tools I knew that the real cost in serious software is not measured in dollars. The initial cost always takes care of itself over time. The real cost is the time you put in to learn and someday master the tool. If you value your time – as you should, then time should be a major factor in your decision.
Because CAD software has so much capability and tons of features expect an investment of your time over a number of years. Digital woodworking involves creating the drawings that you’ll ultimately machine. Experience has also taught me that better quality software is often worth the added costs over a free or inexpensive solution. Unfortunately, because software can’t be touched like a beautifully made hand tool many people don’t recognize the value in it and automatically gravitate to the lowest price solution. But, like other tools in the shop, free or inexpensive software can sometimes be like living with any other cheap tool. You often get what you pay for. Inaccuracy, limitations, reliability, incompatibility and just plain being hard to learn and live with are frustrations common in both the hand tool and software worlds.
The choice of CAD software is a decision with long term consequences. In my case, I chose a highly capable 3D package with lots of room to expand.
Treat Software Like a Major Shop Tool
A more realistic approach is to consider that buying good CAD and CAM software is comparable to the process of deciding on a quality fixed tool in your workshop. It’s worth serious consideration and research on your part before you make a decision to commit.
One advantage that software has over big, heavy shop tools is you can take it home and try it out. Free trials, usually for 30 days or more give you a good chance to evaluate before you make a decision. And, don’t just poke around but also use some of the training tools that the software companies and YouTube provides.
So, What did I Do?
At the time, no CNC ROUTER manufacture made a machine available in the size, specification, level of precision and with special tweaks I considered important for furniture making,  so I ended up designing the machine I needed and having it custom built.
For me the choice of CAD package had to fit both my present and future needs, be a solid tool with a lots of capabilities. And, be a tool I wanted to live with for a long time and like any other favorite tools, be a program I really liked using. For software, I chose a high-end but moderately priced 3D CAD program called Rhino3D that I’m very happy with. And, for CAM software I chose RhinoCAM, an advanced package that nicely compliments my CAD software. Because it’s so critical to digital woodworking, software will certainly be an ongoing topic in this blog.
Next up: A series of posts on how I use CNC ROUTERs in my woodworking shop. Then we’ll start getting into some of the details of digital woodworking.

Using New Techniques to Easily Set CNC Router Origin Points

CNC ROUTER origin points can be set quickly with lasers or digital cameras.

In part two of this series, several techniques and tools were shown for accurately setting origin points. You can use line-of-sight, feel, extrapolation from a known diameter, edge finders, wigglers, 3D sensors and more. Accuracy is critical and although all these tools and processes work well, setting origins can be time-consuming. So, in my own shop, I often use other methods and tools to locate and set my origin points. As a result, I’m able to set my zero positions in 30 seconds or less.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

How do I do it? Three different methods. Two involve modern tools and the third is the use of the grid system that I’ve designed for the bed of my CNC ROUTER. All three approaches speed up the process of finding origin points.

he trick with lasers is a sharp focus, good alignment and splitting the beam right on the edges of the board.

Set your origin point with a cross laser

A few years back, furniture maker and friend, Bob Spangler started using a cross laser as an alignment tool. A great idea that I adopted and took a bit further. Essentially, you mount a cross beam laser on the moving plate on your CNC ROUTER’s gantry and set the crossing beams to align with your X and Y axis. I suggest that you don’t mount it on the moving Z axis so that it travels up and down with your spindle. The reason is you’ll create parallax errors and the beam will move as your Z height moves up and down.

To use the laser, start by centering the cross beam lines over the corner of a board that’s in alignment to the axises of your CNC ROUTER’s table. Make sure your beam is focused and sharp. Use your CNC ROUTERs smallest movements to get it exactly in place. If you can split the two beams on the edges, you’re there. Now, reset the X and Y axis to zero.

Next, you need to move and center your spindle. This is the time to be as accurate as you can. Use measuring tools, like an edge finder or other technique mentioned in previous posts. Save and record the offset X and Y distance from the laser’s position to the spindle’s position. You’ll use these coordinates often so it’s worth making the information easy to access. I keep it as a little G-code file stored on a desktop sticky note on my PC-based CNC ROUTER, and as a macro in my controller program and also as a stored mini program on my Laguna IQ. Now, all you have to do is align the laser, reset X and Y to zero, move the offset distance that you recorded earlier and reset to zero, once again. This method is fast.

In the future, I’ll write a full how-to article and suggest components for laser installation as part of this CNC ROUTER Origin Points series and post it here. Since I’ve installed a cross beam laser on a CNC ROUTER a number of times, I’ve worked out the issues and sorted through the choices of laser — more powerful is not better, btw. And, walk you through alignment, the choices of holders and different power sources.

With the right software, camera and CNC ROUTER bed setup, you get a bird’s eye view of your target. This view can be magnified.

Set your origin point with a camera

The laser method works very well. But, going back and forth between your controller and the table it takes some time to line up the beams to a corner or a drawn target. And, because the beam is directly over the alignment point, it’s a little difficult to be accurate.

I’ve found a method I live even better. This is what gets my setup time down to 30 seconds or less. Because I have a PC hooked up to my CNC ROUTER, more often I use a CNC ROUTER mounted endoscope and special software that puts a target on the screen and magnifies the image. Alignment is easier if you’re right on top of the target. This solution works great and I use it daily. The process is exactly the same as the laser method. Center over the target, find the offset between the camera’s cross lines and the center of the spindle, use and record the information to move from camera position to the spindle position.

As with the laser method, I’ll also do a CNC ROUTER Origin Points article on how to set this up and which equipment to buy and how to set it up. After much trial and error, I’ve found that there are more wrong camera choices then right choices, so be careful if you choose to jump ahead. The mounting considerations for a CNC ROUTER camera are similar to the laser. However, routing the camera’s cable presents a few new challenges.

Setting Origin Points on the Fly

The final solution that I like to use is based upon the way I’ve set up the bed of my CNC ROUTER. This will take another article, a lot of explanation and photos and videos to fully explain, but let’s just say that I keep my bed milled flat and set it up as an accurate grid system and I know every position on it. I take full advantage of this for material, fixture and jig placement. I can set origin points quickly and align and hold parts on the grid. It all starts with a known home or default position that can be tested, as needed. My goal is to use the CNC ROUTER’s built-in digital accuracy to do as much work for me as possible. I even incorporate the setup into my CAD drawings so that when it comes time to mill, everything lines up. With good workflow, accuracy and origin points are just a few clicks away.

CNC Router Customized to Get Furniture Making Go Digital

I couldn’t find a CNC Router designed for furniture making, so I had mine custom made. Now, woodworkers have some off-the-shelf choices that fit our special requirements.

Part Two. Decisions to Make

I’ve been using CNC Router services since the late ’90s to create patterns, jigs and fixture components and a few furniture parts. After years of use, the potential of a CNC Router as a useful tool in woodworking was obvious. But, if I was going to make the most of it, I needed get my own machine. A couple of things were holding me back. Which machine to buy was a complicated decision. I knew what I needed, but the machine I wanted wasn’t available. That said, the major reason for the delay in getting my own CNC Router was more about choosing and committing to an advanced CAD software package that I could live with for a long time.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

Big Machines Don’t Fit Well in Small Shops

Until recently, most CNC Routers were expensive and designed for cabinet shops who use sheet goods and are sized 4×8 or larger. Like many woodworkers, my shop space is limited. Factory or cabinet shop sized CNC Routers were just too big for my needs. Here’s why. The rule of thumb for sizing equipment for furniture making is to size your power tools to the average of your larger individual furniture parts. Your equipment doesn’t have to handle the biggest piece you can imagine. When the occasional really big part comes up, you work around the problem using alternate woodworking techniques. Being flexible in how you accomplish a given task is an important part of what woodworking is all about.

This same theory works for sizing a CNC Router. If you consider everything you might make, you’ll find that most furniture parts really aren’t all that big. I needed a CNC Router sized for furniture making not cabinetmaking.

Deciding On CAD Software for Woodworking

I also had to commit to better design software then I was using at the time. After a career as a designer, from decades of experience I knew that good software is a critical. Great software can do much more for you then just being a simple tool for making drawings. In the right hands, it’s potentially a powerful creative tool. Once mastered, it gives you new opportunities and take you in new directions.  And so, the software decision was the most difficult of the two I had to make. And, it’s the reason I didn’t buy a CNC Router years sooner.

Why was it a hard choice? Because, if you’re going to use digitally based tools of any type (CNC Routers, Laser Cutters, etc.) you have to make a commitment to learn CAD software – the tool you use to create your designs, and CAM software – for turning your drawings into the tool paths and the instructions that the CNC Router follows. Because of its enormous range of capabilities, CAD in particular takes a commitment to dive in and learn it. I looked at many different professional packages over several years but I needed to give the contestants a more thorough evaluation. It took the commitment to get a CNC Router to force me to look deeper and critically evaluate my needs and long term expectations.

And, since this question will inevitably come up, it’s important to clarify that 3D sketching software is not the same as true CAD software. The accuracy, features, toolset, versatility and potential of true CAD software – especially 3D CAD software – are critical if your intended result is CAM files that will run on CNC Routers. That being said, if you already have experience in 3D sketching, it’s a great place to start as you head into the world of real CAD software.

The Cost of Software is Measured in Time. Not Dollars.

Certainly, CAD software like this can be expensive but price wasn’t my first concern. From decades using professional digital design tools I knew that the real cost in serious software is not measured in dollars. The initial cost always takes care of itself over time. The real cost is the time you put in to learn and someday master the tool. If you value your time – as you should, then time should be a major factor in your decision.

Because CAD software has so much capability and tons of features expect an investment of your time over a number of years. Digital woodworking involves creating the drawings that you’ll ultimately machine. Experience has also taught me that better quality software is often worth the added costs over a free or inexpensive solution. Unfortunately, because software can’t be touched like a beautifully made hand tool many people don’t recognize the value in it and automatically gravitate to the lowest price solution. But, like other tools in the shop, free or inexpensive software can sometimes be like living with any other cheap tool. You often get what you pay for. Inaccuracy, limitations, reliability, incompatibility and just plain being hard to learn and live with are frustrations common in both the hand tool and software worlds.

The choice of CAD software is a decision with long term consequences. In my case, I chose a highly capable 3D package with lots of room to expand.

Treat Software Like a Major Shop Tool

A more realistic approach is to consider that buying good CAD and CAM software is comparable to the process of deciding on a quality fixed tool in your workshop. It’s worth serious consideration and research on your part before you make a decision to commit.

One advantage that software has over big, heavy shop tools is you can take it home and try it out. Free trials, usually for 30 days or more give you a good chance to evaluate before you make a decision. And, don’t just poke around but also use some of the training tools that the software companies and YouTube provides.

So, What did I Do?

At the time, no CNC Router manufacture made a machine available in the size, specification, level of precision and with special tweaks I considered important for furniture making,  so I ended up designing the machine I needed and having it custom built.

For me the choice of CAD package had to fit both my present and future needs, be a solid tool with a lots of capabilities. And, be a tool I wanted to live with for a long time and like any other favorite tools, be a program I really liked using. For software, I chose a high-end but moderately priced 3D CAD program called Rhino3D that I’m very happy with. And, for CAM software I chose RhinoCAM, an advanced package that nicely compliments my CAD software. Because it’s so critical to digital woodworking, software will certainly be an ongoing topic in this blog.

The Advantages of Laser Routers for Woodworking

Laser Woodworking

A pioneering craft for the 21st Century.

Each generation, a new technology in woodworking enables us to work faster, with more precision and more creativity. Carbide-tipped bits and a whole new set of portable power tools, for example, have improved how we work and what we build. For the next generation, CNC lasers may also be one of those tools that transform our shops.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

I’m a young, 21st Century woodworker. When Epilog, a maker of CNC Router lasers, asked me to try out the Helix , a mid-size machine from the Legend Elite series, I jumped at the chance. What can it do? How does it work? How far can I push it? Dozens of questions came up. I’ll introduce you to what I found, but one thing I’ll tell you up front: There’s way more to this technology than meets the eye. After days of experimenting, I only scratched the surface.

What is a CNC laser?

To understand a CNC laser, think of it as having two components. First, there’s the CNC Router (computer numerically controlled) part. You’re probably familiar with CNC Router machines–they’re common in factories, and are making their way into small woodworking shops, too. In woodworking applications, a CNC Router usually controls a router. OK, let’s replace that router bit with a highintensity beam of light–a laser. That’s the second part of the machine.

Consider a CNC laser as a type of printer. A computer program moves the machine’s head. But the head shoots a laser, instead of ink.

What can a laser do?

A CNC laser’s beam essentially heats and vaporizes the wood it contacts. By adjusting the intensity of the light, you can determine the depth that it cuts. Usually, the waste is just reduced to smoke, but when the laser is set on high, you may even create a small flame!

You can fine-tune the depth-of-cut however you wish, but think of it as having three levels: shallow, medium and deep. They correspond to three diff erent applications: engraving, relief carving and pattern cutting.

Lots of folks have bought a CNC laser for engraving things like nametags, keychains and other quickly personalized trinkets. It’s a great small business–there’s one in virtually every city in the country. You can copy your own images or download them from the Internet. Basically, any image that can be digitized can be engraved.

Cutting deeper into the wood with a laser creates a three dimensional effect, similar to low relief carving. The laser is extremely precise. You can create very intricate patterns, perfect for medallions, awards, moldings or any design that will embellish a project.

Cutting deeper yet, you can go all the way through a relatively thin piece of solid wood or plywood (up to 3/8" on the Helix I tested). You’re not making images anymore–you’re making shapes. Lasers are commonly used to make wooden clock parts, dollhouse furniture, models, 3-D animal sculptures and more. For workshop applications, you can use a laser to create extremely accurate plywood templates, based on CAD drawings, for shaping parts on a router table. You could also use a laser for intarsia, marquetry or scroll-saw patterns.

That’s just the tip of the iceberg. There’s a wide community of Epilog users online (www.EpilogLaser.com), supported and encouraged by Epilog to push the boundaries of what a laser can do. If you buy a laser for woodworking, or rent time on one, consider yourself a pioneer. Many applications have yet to be discovered!

How does the laser work?

The Epilog’s laser tube is located in back of the machine. The beam of high-energy light passes through a series of mirrors and lenses to a CNC-controlled head, which moves in an X/Y plane (Photo 1). The head moves in a totally sealed and safe compartment containing the workpiece.

The Epilog interfaces with your computer much like a printer. After you’ve set up your project in Corel Draw, the software included with the Epilog (which can be used with a wide variety of graphic-editing programs), you hit print and bring up a print driver screen, which Eplilog refers to as the dashboard (Photo 2). The dashboard is where you make your adjustments. The most important are speed (how fast the laser moves over your material) and intensity (how strong the laser is, and how deep it will cut). Once you’ve zeroed in on your settings for a particular project, you can save and recall them at any time.

What does the Epilog require?

On the hardware side, you’ll need a computer to run the Epilog. You’ll also need an exhaust system, to remove particulates and odor from the machine’s exhaust (Photo 3). Most users in a fixed installation opt to exhaust the fumes out of their shop with a hose or ductwork, but portable filtration units are available for mobile applications (like shows and fairs). Most lasers and fi ltration units only need 120-volt circuits.

On the software side, the Epilog is designed to empower even a novice computer user to get started creating quickly. You don’t have to be an expert! Having grown up in the information age, that part of the operation didn’t faze me, but I was surprised to see how easy the software was to use at its most basic levels.

Types of Epilog lasers

Epilog has two lines of lasers: Zing and Legend Elite. The major diff erences between the lines are capacity (the size and depth of the bed), power (expressed in watts) and resolution (dots per square inch).

The Zings are entry-level lasers with smaller beds and lower-power, capable of cutting through 1/4" wood.

The Legend Elite series lasers have a larger capacity, more powerful beams capable of cutting through wood up to 3/8" thick. Legend series lasers can also engrave at a faster speed than the Zings.

Both lines of lasers have a repeatability of ±.0005". Zing series machines engrave up to 1000 dpi; the Legend series goes up to 1200 dpi.

The Helix I tried out has a 24" x 18" bed, a 60-watt laser. The exhaust system we used is about $3,000.

The bottom line

An Epilog is an investment, no doubt about it. But it can be the foundation of a profitable small business or the tool that propels your woodworking to an entirely new level. To find out more about laser woodworking, contact your local Epilog distributor. He can probably locate an Epilog in your area and help you contract some work or rent some time on the machine. After seeing how quick and easy it is to personalize a project or engrave an intricate design, you just might catch the laser bug. Our photographer sure did–he achieved some remarkable results.

What A Laser Can Do

Engraving: The Epilog can burn a shallow picture or drawing on wood. You can reproduce any digital image, including your own photo or sketch.

Relief Carving: The Epilog can also be set to burn deeper, for shallow relief carving. A laser can quickly and precisely duplicate intricate patterns.

Pattern Cutting: Set to full strength, the Epilog can cut all the way through material. You can duplicate parts large or small, such as these interlocking puzzle pieces.

Inlay: Using pattern cutting and relief carving techniques, the Epilog can cut out an inlay and the recess in which it fits.

How It Works

1.     The Epilog laser’s head moves like a printer. It will scan back and forth or follow a continuous line, depending on how it’s programmed.

2.     The Epilog’s settings are adjusted in a printer driver window on your computer. By adjusting rate, frequency, intensity and other parameters, a variety of materials can be engraved or cut.

3.     The laser beam produces smoke and fumes, so you’ll also need an external exhaust system or a portable filtration unit.

4.     The future for CNC laser woodworking is wide open. This shallow relief carving, based on a photo of a tree, cuts through one layer of plywood to reveal the layer below. It’s a beautiful effect that we found with creative experimentation.

Every Craftsman Deserves a High-Speed CNC Router

Some interesting information crossed my desk this past week. General International is introducing a series of tools, known as “Access by General,” designed specifically for wheelchair users and individuals with limited mobility. The issue of properly sized and proportionally correct tools was brought to my attention before by non-wheelchair-bound women (and some men) who attend woodworking classes. Some are unable to reach past the table saw blade or feel they need to be taller to effectively use the band saw. These tools could be the answer for many woodworkers, not just those restricted to wheelchairs.

CNC or Computer Numerical Control is growing in importance in schools. This section is an introduction to CNC Routermachining and explains in simple terms the equipment needed and how it can be used.

The “Access by  General” line, all made in Canada at this time, includes the mainstay of tools in a woodworking shop. A table saw, jointer, band saw, drill press and lathe are the beginning of the line, with promises for additional tool releases during 2008 , made in both Canada and overseas.

The line will be available in stores later this fall; prices are expected to be released by the end of October.

To gain a better understanding of how changes in the table heights and overall dimensions affect a wheelchair user, I adjusted my desk chair to match a wheelchair height (19″) and positioned myself at four of the five tools. (The lathe escaped my scrutiny , I don’t turn much).

I began at the jointer. The machine in the Popular Woodworking shop has a table height of 30″ while the Access jointer is listed at 28″. I can tell you that the 2″ differential could make a difference. Seated, I was uncomfortable using our jointer for milling rough lumber. While I was still adequately above the board, I felt much less secure pushing forward while holding the piece to the bed.

Next, I rolled my chair over to our table saw. Here I found a substantial difference. Our saw is 34″ tall and the “Access” saw tops out at 29″. I felt very out of control ripping a piece of stock. Not only was I pushing directly at the blade, I could not reach past the blade to finish the cut. Push sticks were required and I was cutting a 6″ wide board (generally this would be of no concern).

Sitting at the drill press seemed no big deal. I could reach the handles just fine. I was within the standard front-reach measurements specified by the Americans with Disabilities Act accessibility guidelines. But, our drill press overall height is 68″ and the “Access” press is only 57 1/2″ tall. The 10-1/2″ difference would make things much more easy to use from a seated position.

Using our band saw while seated was the most eye opening experience, to say the least. As I sat in the chair, I looked directly at the table edge of ourGrizzly G0555X. The table height is 44-1/2″.

The “Access” band saw has a table height of 32-5/8″. That amount is astounding and would make the band saw so much easier to use -not to mention safer.

I applaud General for the effort to produce tools for a specific audience. I also think there will be additional users who would just feel more comfortable using machines that better fit their body structures.

If this is an issue or concern of yours, leave a comment so we can see if General in on course with the “Access by General” line of tools. When the prices are released and further information is in hand, I’ll update this entry with the numbers.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

Learn to Use Digital Woodworking Tools for CNC Routers

CNC or Computer Numerical Control is growing in importance in schools. This section is an introduction to CNC Router machining and explains in simple terms the equipment needed and how it can be used.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

The most common questions that I hear are about how to go about learning to use digital woodworking tools? And, as woodworkers how do you use these tools to get the best out of them? In this post and the one following, I’ll point out different ways to learn how to use these tools. First an overall view. Then some suggestions on different ways to learn how to use digital tools.

Digital Tools are Different

Comparatively, using these tools well is similar to being really on top of hand tool and hybrid woodworking. It’s that magic point where your skill and experience have reached a level so that on any project, you think through what needs to be done and know how to build it right with the tools and techniques you have. That’s very satisfying. It’s exciting when it sinks in that you know that you can pretty much create anything that you can design. When you really get comfortable with digital woodworking, it’s that way too. It becomes almost a different kind of thinking.

From the outside perspective, there’s a lot going on in digital woodworking. It looks complicated. Unlike simpler tools that usually have a single purpose and the focus on using them is on physical skills and techniques, the digital world has a lot of new and different parts, processes to keep track of and possibilities to think about. That means there are new things for woodworkers to learn. The good news is there are some excellent resources to learn from.

Digital woodworking is about computer controlled hardware, software, new processes, procedures and how you apply it and create with it when working with wood. That’s different than the hybrid and hand tool woodworking methods most of us use.

First, some excellent news. In practice, both old and new methods have far more in common than you’d think. Woodworking is ultimately a problem-solving adventure involving thinking your way through mechanical problems. For many of us, that adventure is part of the fun of woodworking.

The differences between old and new are mostly about the tools and the order of how things are done.  When using hand and hybrid tools, you work through your challenges during the process of making and assembling a project. In digital woodworking, much of that same kind of problem solving takes place up front, as you’re designing, planning and preparing. That’s where software and computers come in. Like you may have learned your hand tool skills, there’s proven ways to learn digital skills. And, I think you’ll find them familiar.

Apply Mechanical Thinking

All types of woodworking, even digital, use the same kind of logical mechanical thinking. Figuring out how to make something with a CNC Router is similar to what you’re doing now using other tools. As with any tool, it’s important to understand how the tool should be used. The limitations of what can be done with a CNC Router is close to a tool you probably already know, a router. So, if you think about what a router can do using your woodworking knowledge and experience, you’ve got a pretty good idea of what’s possible with a CNC Router. The difference is that a digitally controlled router works very precisely in 3 dimensions pretty much anywhere within the working envelope of the machine you’re using. Even on one of the smaller hobbyist focused machines that would be 24” x 36” x 6”. That’s a lot of space. And a lot of possibilities. And even more fun.

Different Tools Require New Learning

Since this new world involves computers, software and digitally controlled machines, the process is naturally different. So, expect that adding digital tools means that there are new things to learn and new skills to develop. Learning to work with software tools during the design and planning phases of a project is the first task. Working with the mechanics and capabilities of the CNC Router machine and applying woodworking know-how is the next task.

We’ll get into choosing and learning software are subjects in themselves with good classroom and self-paced online learning options at a later time. Learning the overall concepts and the fundamentals of the mechanical processes for setting up and running a CNC Router properly, benefits from some kind of instruction. Just like you might pick up a particular technique or new skills in a hand tool class or workshop, the approach to learning works in digital woodworking.

Where to start

Obviously, you should always start by reading your manual that comes with your machine. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to see one that is well designed and barely more than safety procedures and specifications. There is no real content to help you get started. None of them walks you through basic routines or provides you with step-by-step examples of simple tasks. This could be done much better. I really hope manufacturers work on this.

What about the internet? The internet works well for certain kinds of learning. But, so far, there are few solutions for the interactive learning needed to get the best out of digital tools. Learning online is usually limited to watching videos. Think of it this way, if you’ve ever taken a hand tool skills class where the instructor works directly with you on every little detail from how to hold and use a dovetail saw for perfect cuts to tricks for chopping out pins and tails then you’ll understand the difference between learning a skill online and in person.

There are several in person solutions to learning how to use digital woodworking tools. I’ve got a nice list of suggestions that I’ll share in my next post.

Can you use CNC end mills by Router Bits?

There are a lot of options when it comes to CNC end mills, and router bits that work for cutting wood on a CNC. Shown at the top is a high-performance end mill designed to cleanly cut wood at extremely high speeds. Below that is a conventionally designed, coated CNC end mill. At the bottom is a compression router bit designed to give you a clean cut at the top and bottom.

What’s are the differences between a router bit & a CNC end mill? 

CNC Mills

There’s a lot of confusion about these two terms. In general, it’s a difference of design and purpose. Most true CNCmills with high helix angles (a helix angle is the angle between any helix and an axial line) are designed for cutting metal inside coolant-flooded CNC milling machines (you’d likely find those in an engineering or machine shop environment). But not all mills are used for machining metal. In fact, CNC mills are designed for cutting all kinds of specific materials in different working situations. You can find mills for cutting steel of various types, aluminum, brass, plastics, polycarbonates, carbon fiber, foam, plywood, composites and yes, soft and hard woods.

Another difference is that CNC mills are sometimes longer than the bits you’d typically use on a router. It’s common to find mills that are 3”, 4”, 6” or more. You’d likely never use really long mills on a hand-held router, but on a CNC sometimes that extra length comes in handy for deep-cutting, tight clearance situations. That said, for rigidity, it’s always a good practice to use as short a mill as possible.

Can you use CNC end mills to cut wood on a CNC?

If the mills are carefully chosen the answer is yes. I’ll get into more about mill selection later on, but I can tell you that the first thing to look for is the number of cutters, or flutes. When cutting wood, less is more. On the CNC Routers that you’d typically find in a woodworking shop, two flutes are ideal.

Router Bits

Router bits are obviously designed for the kind of routers that woodworkers use. Compared to an ordinary CNC mill, notice that the spiral cutting edges on a woodworking router bit are closer to vertical. Technically, their helix angles are shallower: 18°-30° compared to 30°-45° or more for an end mill designed for metal cutting. Also, notice that there’s usually fewer cutting edges on router bits than on most CNC mills. Two is most common. There are good reasons for these features, of course. Less cutting edges allow router bits to remove a lot of wood quickly and to cut cleanly.

Can you use router bits on a CNC?

Yes. If the router bit is able to remove wood quickly in a high-load situation — remember, CNC Routers do their work much faster than mere humans with hand-held routers. Many spiral router bits will work fine for woodworking tasks on the kind of CNC machines that woodworkers use: CNC routers. In particular look for two-flute spiral carbide cutters. They’re the standard for this task. I use them all the time and recommend them.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router

How to Make a Home DIY CNC Router Step to Step?

One of the aspects of any home built CNC Router machine is the use of each material in the construction of the machine vs the quantity of that material you have to buy. You are only building one machine so you don’t want have to buy more material than you need to build that machine. You especially need to consider this when deciding the length of travel you want for each axis, because this decision effects almost every other part of the machine. This was the general design process I went through for my CNC machine.

1. Decide what length of travel you need for each axis (if you have a specific project in mind for your cnc then start with it’s sizes requirements)

2. Decide what type of linear motion system you will use for the machine

3. Decide what kind of linear drive you will use for each axis

4. Decide what type of drive motor and controller you will use

5. Decide the material you will use to construct the machine

6. Based on the previous decisions, design a machine on paper or a CAD software of you choice (this does not have to be a complete design, just enough so you know the total quantity of the materials you’ll need)

7. Determine if you will need any special tools for your design

8. Determine the overall cost of your design, which includes the cost of tools you may not have

9. Decide that you can’t spend that much money on the machine and return to step 1

I went through this process 5 times before coming to a final design. The pictures show the different versions of the router as my design progressed. I know most people would consider this to be overkill but for me doing all this important. I knew that once I finished actually building the machine I would have something that fit my needs and my budget without any headaches do to poor planning.

Here is my thinking for each one of the design steps I outlined:

1. Travel: My first thought for a CNC Router machine was to build molds for the vacuum forming machine I have already built. So I decided to build the machine with roughly 12”x24”x6" of travel because that how big the forming platen is on my vacuum forming machine.

2. Linear Motion: There are many options to choose from for linear motion. Commonly used methods for CNC routers include, drawer slides, skate bearings, v-groove bearings, round linear rail and profile linear rail. These are ordered in terms of cost, I would recommend going the best system you can afford. You can save some money in other areas of the machine but getting a good motion system will pay off in cutting quality. I chose to use round linear rail. This system uses precision ground and hardened steel shafts and linear bearings that use small steel balls that roll on the shaft and re-circulate through channels within the bearing. This offers smooth low friction movement and has good resistance to forces placed on the bearing in any direction. There are many different manufactures of these types of rails and bearings and costs can vary quite a bit. I got my rails and bearings from a reseller in China on ebay. The ebay store is linearmotionbearings and the prices were the best I found online. They often sells kits with three sets of rails and two bearings for each rail, which is what is needed for a 3-axis CNC. The kit I got uses 20mm x 800mm long rails for the x-axis, 16mm x 500mm long rails for the y-axis and 12mm x 300mm long rails for the z-axis. This kit cost me $223 dollars shipped. 

3. Linear Drive: The three basic options to drive each axis of a CNC router are ribbed belts, screws, and a rack and pinion. The most common on DIY CNC routers are ACME screws, ball screws and rack and pinion setups. Screw drive systems work by attaching a nut to the movable part of each axis, a threaded rod is then fed through the nut and locked into position at both ends. The screw is turned by the drive motors and the nut moves along the screw. ACME screws have trapezoidal threads that are either cut or rolled into a steel rod. ACME screw threads are used on common C-clamps. Their thread shape makes the screw stronger than the threads on standard bolts. When these threads are precision cut they are perfectly suited to drive a CNC router. Probably the most common and cheapest ACME thread size is 1/2"-10. That means1/2” in diameter and 10 threads per inch. Ten threads per inch means that if the screw in spun around 10 times the attached nut will move 1 inch along the screw. For any screw size multiple individual threads can be cut on the screw, this is referred to as the number of starts the screw has. A single start screw has one thread a 2-start has two threads and a 5-start has five threads. What is the significance of multiple threads on a screw? Well there are two things that make multiple start screws better for CNC machines. First multiple start screws are more efficient at turning the rotational force on the screw into linear force on the nut. This means it takes less torque for the drive motors to move each axis. Second, multiple start screws increase the lead of the screw, which is how far a nut would move if the screw was rotated once. To determine the lead for a screw divide the number of starts by the number of threads per inch. For example, a 1/2”-10, 5 start, ACME screw would have a 5/10 or 1/2” lead. This means for every rotation of the screw the nut moves 1/2”. This is important because the electric drive motor can produce the most torque at low speeds, and with a higher lead the nut will move farther per revolution of the screw and that means the motor can spin at a lower speed to move the axis of the machine. For my machine I chose to use a 1/2”-10, 5 start, precision ACME screw from Mcmaster Carr for all 3 axis.

Another important thing to note is how precise the fit between the nut and the screw is. A standard nut on a bolt will wiggle a small amount back and forth and in CNC terms this is known as backlash. You want to reduce the amount of backlash you have between the nut and the screw because every time the screw changes rotation direction that small amount of play in nut will throw of your CNC position off and your parts might not come out correctly sized. There are ways with both hardware and the software you use to reduce the amount of backlash you have. On the software side there are simple settings that can compensate for backlash and on the hardware side you can use an anti-backlash nut. I purchased anti-backlash nuts from dumpsterCNC and again you can find part numbers on the parts list. Typically the effects of backlash can be reduced to the point that parts can be made to within a few thousands of an inch.

1. Drive Motor: For CNC routers two basic options exist, stepper motors or servo motors. Stepper motors are used in the vast majority of DIY CNC routers. CNCroutersource has some excellent information comparing these two types of motors. The key difference in these motors is servo motors provide position feedback to ensure proper positioning while stepper motors do not. I chose to use stepper motors for my machine mainly due to cost. Servo motors are more expensive and require more expensive controllers then comparable stepper motors for the sizes that are commonly used on CNC routers. Also stepper motors are highly supported in the DIY router community and are available from many different retailers. When looking in to stepper motors and controllers I found many options and price ranges from less than $100 to more than $500. When deciding what to get for my machine I came to the conclusion that these systems are so universal that I could use my controller and even steppers for other CNC projects in the future. Knowing that I wanted to get good performance and long term reliability I decided to go with American made components from Gecko. I purchased a Gecko G540 stepper controller which can control up to 4 stepper motors at once and connects to a computer through a parallel port. I also purchased 4 280oz-in, NEMA 23 stepper motors from Gecko which are also made in America. The control software I decided to use is called Mach3 and it uses a computer’s parallel port to send signals to the G540 which controls the stepper motors. Mach3 CNC control software can be downloaded and used for free, but is limited until you buy the software for $150. Mach3 is probably the most widely used software for DIY CNC machines and is well supported.

2. Construction Material: Most DIY CNC routers are built using either MDF, aluminum extrusion, or steel. MDF can be easy to work with and cheap to buy and many first time builders use this material. Slotted aluminum extrusion, commonly from a company called 80/20, is used on many DIY CNC router design plans available on the internet. It offers many design options due to the large amount on mounting brackets and configurations the slotted design allows. Aluminum extrusion would also be the most expensive of the three methods I listed. Steel is also used to construct many DIY routers. Square tubing, angle, and flat stock are common and can usually be locally sourced. In most cases steel machines are welded together so a welder and the ability to weld are necessary. Steel is generally going to be less expensive per foot than aluminum extrusion. I chose to use 1”x2”x0.065” steel tubing to construct my CNC router. I was able to purchase a single 24ft piece from a local steel supplier, Industrial Tube and Steel. They even cut it in half so I could load it in my car. If you don’t have a local steel supplier I would suggest looking at speedymetals, I have purchased from them before and they have good prices and deliver fast. I have experience welding and a flux core welder, which is similar to MIG welder but doesn’t require shielding gas. If you want to get more information about welding take a look at this great instructable from Phil B, Learning to Weld. Using steel also requires the use of metal working tools. I used a small horizontal band saw to cut the tubing and a small bench top drill press to drill holes. I have included a few tips about working with metal and some tools that make life a lot easier in this instrucable.

3. Design: You can use what ever software you are comfortable with when designing the machine. You could even just draw your machine on paper. 123D from Autodesk and SketchUp from Google are both free 3D modeling software programs you could use. Many of the parts I used on this machine came from McMaster-Carr. Their website provides drawings for many of the items they sell including 3D models which can be downlaoded for free.

4. Tools: I used a number of tools to build my CNC machine and they are listed on the Tools step. Some of the tools are specific to working with metal and are essential to getting the best results. I also made a few of my own tools to make building this machine much easier.

5. Cost: I estimated my cost for the complete machine and electronics around $1500.

You now know my decisions and hopefully understand my reasoning. I think I have a pretty good combination of parts that has exceeded my expectations. If you decide to build a machine based on my plans I have everything laid out in the following steps.

wood CNC router

CNC router machine

CNC Router 4 axis

CNC Router 3 axis

cnc router

5 axis CNC Router